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South Face
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Mule Train 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Cunningham and Tom Foll, July 1987
Page Views: 611
Submitted By: Bryan G on Nov 1, 2011

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Extremely cool patina and chicken-heads reduce mos...


This is an enjoyable climb up the beautiful golden face on the South side of the dome. Start about in the middle of the face, at a section of speckled rock (looks like this Photo). The crux is getting past the first couple bolts, and I thought it was pretty stout for the 5.7 it's given in the Spencer guide.After the start, lots of 5.0 climbing up the knobs leads to a bolted belay at a nice little dish/ledge.

The second pitch climbs up and right. Some sections of golden polish provide more challenge. Another 2 bolt anchor is below the giant bulbous overhang. I spotted another bolt on the slab above this anchor, so it looks like a route to the top of the dome has been added, although we didn't do it.

There are also a handful of other nice looking face climbs to the right of Mule Train. They are newer and not in the Spencer guidebook.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes to descend. We managed to rap with one 70m by working our way right to a ledge, and then raping to the ground from a bolted anchor on the ledge.


Bolts protect all the hard climbing, but you can reduce the runouts on 5.0 terrain by slinging chickenheads.

Photos of Mule Train Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful golden polish on the second pitch.
Beautiful golden polish on the second pitch.

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