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> Fresno Dome
> e. "South" Face
Mule Train
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
Routes in e. "South" Face
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Buggery On The High Seas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chimney Sweep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coronary Bypass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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East Splitter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Easy Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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EZX T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Green Sponge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High and Mighty S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Independence Woof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Iron in The Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jolly Hockey Sticks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mule Train T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mungercling TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Petey the Underdog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Poking Papa Bear T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Honeymoon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Southwest Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 4 Bolt Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unknown Old School Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Whiskey Bill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jim Cunningham and Tom Foll, July 1987 |
| Page Views: | 2,251 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Nov 1, 2011 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is an enjoyable climb up the beautiful golden face on the South side of the dome. Start about in the middle of the face, at a section of speckled rock (looks like this ![]()
). The crux is getting past the first couple bolts, and I thought it was pretty stout for the 5.7 it's given in the Spencer guide.After the start, lots of 5.0 climbing up the knobs leads to a bolted belay at a nice little dish/ledge.
The second pitch climbs up and right. Some sections of golden polish provide more challenge. Another 2 bolt anchor is below the giant bulbous overhang. I spotted another bolt on the slab above this anchor, so it looks like a route to the top of the dome has been added, although we didn't do it.
There are also a handful of other nice looking face climbs to the right of Mule Train. They are newer and not in the Spencer guidebook.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes to descend. We managed to rap with one 70m by working our way right to a ledge, and then raping to the ground from a bolted anchor on the ledge.
The second pitch climbs up and right. Some sections of golden polish provide more challenge. Another 2 bolt anchor is below the giant bulbous overhang. I spotted another bolt on the slab above this anchor, so it looks like a route to the top of the dome has been added, although we didn't do it.
There are also a handful of other nice looking face climbs to the right of Mule Train. They are newer and not in the Spencer guidebook.
Rappel the route with 2 ropes to descend. We managed to rap with one 70m by working our way right to a ledge, and then raping to the ground from a bolted anchor on the ledge.
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