Muldoon  5.7 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 141 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Peter Jackson and Reg Williams, 26/9/65 Submitted By:  Dave Poulsen on Mar 28, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Muldoon ascents the right hand arete of the main A...

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Description 

A fantastic route on great rock that ascends the right hand arete of the main face of the Atridae Wall. Starts up a short wide left facing corner crack to an orange cave then up short crack to belay on a good ledge and the arete. Great climbing with good moves on juggy holds leads up right past square flat red overhang and onto the face above to top.

Location 

The route is located on the right hand arete of the Arridae Wall just a short walk up and left from the Pines camp ground. Rappel rings are near the top of the route but require two ropes or at least a 70m rope, or a 60m rappel can be found with a bit of a scramble over to the right out from the top of Agamemnon.

Protection 

Passive pro is the go but a few smallish cams come in handy. There is a fixed pin in the cave on the first pitch but it should be backed up with a nut placement. A good chicken head can be thankfully slung at the overhang on the second pitch. There is no fixed anchor at the top but a good gear anchor is possible with a couple of slings and a good nut placement.

Photos of Muldoon Slideshow

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Mark just about to reach the belay at the end of P...

Joss working out the tricky crux moves.