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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ben Heaton
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: ZachBradford on Sep 7, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: beta photo - Widowmaker


Steep Friction slab. The route is fairly well protected but you won't want to fall before clipping the second bolt or you just might deck.

(This route was mistakenly called "widowmaker" in the new guidebook" widowmaker is an R rated trad route that climbs several feet to the right. According to the route creator you should be unable to clip any bolts from the original line that is widowmaker.)


Located just 10 feet right of Faceplant next to large tree.


Bolts to Rap anchors

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By bus driver
Oct 26, 2009

when did this get bolts?
By ZachBradford
Aug 1, 2010

Hey TP I'm almost positive this is Widow maker. You can place gear near the large pod down low. Then gear in slots at mid height. And a final piece can be placed on the vertical/bulge section before running it to the top.

It was Retro bolted by an unknown party a few years back.
By ZachBradford
Aug 1, 2010

I am all for respecting the vision of the first ascentionist but the route has been bolted for at least 4 years. When it was bolted that was the time to complain and pull the bolts, if they were going to be pulled. I think the route has now been established in the current community as a sport route. I think it would be a heart pumping trad route for anyone who is ready to give it a shot on gear. I say keep the bolts its not like the bolts are stopping any hard men from doing the route on gear.

All that would be achieved would be a route that would never get climbed at all because the current community is 95% sport climbers. It would be loss. The history was already lost when it was bolted 4 years ago and no one complained then. We only have so many routes in Cedar lets not lose one.

Ryan you are the current communities local Trad climber what do you think? (If you want to try it on gear to see how it goes I'm in.)
By Stevel
From: Cedar City, Utah
Aug 4, 2010

This was already discussed once, long ago. Read Here: utahclimbers.com/phpBB3/viewto...
Might as well read all 4 pages.
By ZachBradford
Aug 5, 2010

After reading the posts on utahclimbers.com it looks like its a case of mistake identity. This line is actually to the left of the original line of "widowmaker"

I have changed the name to the proper name of "Mulato".

Check out the utahclimbers.com link above if you have questions.
It seems that it was checked out earlier and declared "kosher" by members of the original crew who put the line up.

Read the other post!
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