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 ADVANCED
Mugu Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A: Arete TR 
B: Crack TR 
C: Crack TR 
Crystal Crimps 
D: Crack TR 
E: Crack TR 
F: Crack TR 
G: Crack/Face TR 
H: Crack TR 
Traverse T,TR 

Mugu Rock  


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Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 5, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo, Mugu Rock A: Arete (5.9+) B: Crack (5...

Description 

Home to several short, high quality, moderate crack climbs on slightly overhanging rock. The boulder is periodically painted with a semi-gloss paint which masks the graffiti and makes the rock unusually slick for hands and feet.

Several Glue-In eyebolts adorn the top of the boulder. A few small cams and medium stoppers offer additional anchor possibilities. Scramble up and descend the climber’s-right side of the boulder (class-3)

  • *Contributor's Note: all of the route grades are given using the YDS, simply because this is the convention that has been used by guidebook authors for over 20 years (Hellweg & Warstler, Craig Fry, Steve Edwards, etc.). Most of the routes fall into the VB or V0- category.

Getting There 

Located in the parking turnout, on the ocean-side of the highway. You can't miss it!

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mugu Rock
Matt Grieger at the start of route C, at Mugu Rock...

C: Crack 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Central Coast : ... : Mugu Rock
Hard for the grade. The crux is moving off of a painful fingerlock at mid-height. The feet are bad almost the whole way....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Mugu Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Audrey & Drew climb the offwidth (route D) at Mugu...
Audrey & Drew climb the offwidth (route D) at Mugu...
The traverse (5.11+), Mugu Rock
BETA PHOTO: The traverse (5.11+), Mugu Rock
Marisa Fienup enjoying another stellar evening at ...
Marisa Fienup enjoying another stellar evening at ...

Comments on Mugu Rock Add Comment
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By Mulligan
Nov 29, 2009
This is a nice roadside diversion boulder with about a dozen cracks to choose from from 5.8 to 5.11. There are several bolts on top for anchors and an easy descent. The only downside to this boulder is the slick paint it is covered in that makes the jams and footholds somewhat insecure.

This boulder is right off the PCH (Hwy 1), and is easily visible as you drive by. From the north it is shortly after you pass Point Mugu NAS on the ocean (right) side of the road.