Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Arizona Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Death of a Cowboy S 
Muffy S 
Quick And The Dead, The S 
Spot S 
Sweet Home Arizona T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,693
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Dec 12, 2006  with updates from Russ Walling

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Susan on Muffy. The orange streak to her left is ...


Sweet incut edges, gets my vote for best 5.8 at the Alabama Hills. However, it blatantly retrobolts Sweet Home Arizona. Fun to link this route to the top of Sweet Home Arizona (5.8 bit runout, loose plates)


Right sport route on the main face.


bolts, closed cold shut anchor

Comments on Muffy Add Comment
Show which comments
By jfailing
From: Lone Pine, CA
Sep 8, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree - certainly one of the best routes in the hills (and certainly one of the least chossy).
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great rock on this formation!
Not worth merging and topping out, though. The rap time/effort is not worth the last sporty low-angle stuff with lower rock quality to boot. Was a nice view, though - perhaps worth doing once.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Apr 14, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Crux is moving past second bolt. Easier up top. Thought this climb was more difficult that spot which is rated 5.9 in the croft guide book...but maybe cuz I led it much later in day.
By BAd
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Must do route.

Mtnfly, you probably were tired or sumthin' cuz the crux of Spot is definitely harder. I've done Spot and Muffy back-to-back several times, and Spot always takes more.

They's sure great climbs, tho.

Update: Both of these climbs now have hooks for lowering! No need to thrash the cold shuts.

By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Apr 11, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

great solid rock! awesome climb! epic scenery. cool spot, happen to have horses grazing right behind us when we were climbing. dont get that every day!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!