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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a wide dirty crack that the book calls a layback. I thought is was big hands to really big hands then fists and offwidth. If it was cleaner it might be a pretty good route.


Located behind the Anunnaki pillar.


3, 3.5 and 4 Camalots. There is a two bolt anchor at the top with slings.

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By Braxtron
From: ...
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

If you like fists & offwidth, you'll love this climb. Gear to 4" will do you just fine.
By Phill T
Oct 18, 2009

a few golds down low then blues for a while. a few 4s will bring you to the true wideness, but no true offwidth is required, look for hero jugs in the crack within the crack up top! A tipped out 4 will protect the final move, but a 5 would feel much better way up top. A decent rest after the bottom choss and a good ledge before the top wideness keep the pump down. Well worth doing to keep in the shade on a hot day!
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Apr 27, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Dirty, but fun if you enjoy fists. Bring a couple Black Diamond 3.5s if you have them, otherwise you'll be walking your #4s up the second section. Still casual though.
By willeslinger
From: Golden, Colorado
Nov 19, 2012

This route is super rad, don't let the name fool you, it isn't as dirty as it looks from the ground (lotta sand on the left hand wall though, keeps you honest and in the crack because your feet will skid off if you try to lie back). If you've got big hands, there's a phenomenal stretch of wide #3's that you can blast through to a nice shake out ledge. I honestly can't recommend this pitch enough, the location is stellar. You start on the wall of the cave opposite Annunaki and climb up as the cave narrows until you can actually stem off the Annunaki pillar for a good rest before the chains.

Three stars, maybe even four. No joke.

Gear (probably a bit heavy on gear, but the flake you're climbing/protecting sounds kinda hollow, so I sewed it up)

1x #0.75
1x #2
3x #3
1x #3.5
2x #4
1x #4.5 (or new school #5)
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 1, 2013

This route has cleaned up from some traffic. I finally got on it after years of saying it's too dirty. Mainly a lieback and still kinda dirty but it's worth doing if it's too hot in the sun and Annunaki is slammed.
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Mar 24, 2015

What Claramie said. I climbed this thing last week and wasn't dirty at all. Fun climb and in the shade.

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