||Aid, 2 pitches, 100'
|Consensus: ||A2+ [details]|
|Page Views: ||482|
|Submitted By: ||Kevin Landolt on Oct 4, 2010|
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Kent loving the mud.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This is a cool and casual nailing route that ascends an obvious crack (now that the mud cover has been removed) on the south-face center of Dunce Rock. I'm sure it's been done many times before. Climb over a roof on small cams/angles to gain a right leaning mud-crack. Nail up and right on a big expando-flake. As the crack fizzles out, beak and hook right to gain the east ridge. Enjoy a cold PBR on the "comodious" ledge. Pitch two traverses out right on the N. Face to gain the drilled-angle ladder to the summit.
Bring a lawn-chair for the belay, and maybe even a cooler for the beer?
South Face of Dunce Rock
Large/medium/small angles - Leeper Zs - a few big peckers - a big hook - and a few cams.
By k. riemondy
From: Boulder, Co
Oct 7, 2010
I can't wait to redpoint the direct finish up the face. I think it would involve a highstep fr'aid mantel, to another beak seam. mmmm tasty!
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Nov 9, 2010
I actually drilled that angle/bolt ladder on the North Side with JeremyA back in 2007 or so. I think we did the same starting pitch, and agree, a lounge chair con cerveza is pretty neccessary.