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Muddy Waters 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Richard Wright, Spring 2000
Page Views: 1,184
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 11, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: The route with climber at the crux.

Description 

This line is one of the most accessible climbs anywhere and is quite good for a quick, after-work climbing fix. To the right of the 5.7 approach pitch, The Put In, is a small alcove just big enough to get the packs out of the rain. The climbing starts here up a short vertical wall for 15 feet. Chase a slab for a couple of clips and dash up to a moderately complex corner system with a finger lock at its top. This is a fun crux, and I like to heel hook it, however, it has been done numerous other ways. The minor beta for this move is simply this: don't go looking for a lot stuff on the right that is not there; use the corner and crack system. Getting the clip over the corner is tricky and feels a lot more committing than would be expected. Either pull over the corner and then clip, or take an extendo clip that can be used below the lip. Another fun route from Das RouteMeister.


Protection 

QD only. This 80 ft route needs a bit less than a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of Muddy Waters Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the crux move.
Pulling the crux move.
Mark nearing the crux with some cool holds here.
Mark nearing the crux with some cool holds here.
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