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Shakespeare Cliff
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As You Like It T 
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Much Ado About Nothing T 
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Unknown T 

Much Ado About Nothing 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Buzzard 1982
Page Views: 1,080
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Much ado

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great crack climbing followed by an exciting roof make this a highly memorable climb.

Start in a obvious crack just left of a flat face and right of a bolted column. Climb pleasant 5.9 hands with face holds up to a two bolt anchor with green chains...but don't stop there.
Clip the anchor and work up and into the roof above. Climb a finger crack through the roof to a nice ledge above with a bolted anchor. Best to belay from above and rap off.

Location 

Lower Gorge, East Columns, Shakespeare Cliff, look for the roof with green chains below it.

Protection 

rack from .5" - 3"


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By rpc
Sep 21, 2007

A very nice route. One hard move comes right where things get overhung near the top and before crack opens to allow a finger lock (my opinion).
By Johnny Y
From: California
Oct 9, 2014

The crux felt pretty thin even for my small fingers (between #0 to #1 metolius), cranking straight up that crack seemed hard for the grade. A hold out left may help, bouldery.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 11, 2014

Hard for 10d to lead. I climb up, place some purple/blue/yellow mastercams as high as I can, downclimb back to the rest, and then just punch it. Stopping to place gear in the roof makes this a 5.11 for sure. I use the hold out left for sure.

If you want to setup as a TR, its best to extend the anchor way out so that you can get the biners over the sharp edge of the lip. Two double shoulder slings and a cordelette will give you the options you need. 60m rope is plenty for this climb.

Many many people only climb up to the first anchor right below the roof, which goes at 5.9.