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 ADVANCED
Broken Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Up T 
Eulogy T 
Fit for Life S 
Momentum Operator T 
Muad'Dib S 
Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer T 
South Beach T,S 
White Trash T,S 
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Muad'Dib 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 959
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Muad'Dib. Start on the right and move left past t...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route climbs way better than it looks. Follow the line of bolts up the steep slab. Cool moves getting past the lower part of the route using flakes and pockets. The upper part has a reach move to gain a cool bucket and then the top.

Location 

Start 50 feet right of "Fit for Life" on the right side of the wall.

Protection 

Six clips to a two-bolt anchor.


Photos of Muad'Dib Slideshow Add Photo
About halfway and past the crux.
About halfway and past the crux.

Comments on Muad'Dib Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dana Ernst
Apr 20, 2006

...the one who can be many places at once...
By Dan Hildebrand
Jun 11, 2006

Great route for the length. Seemed about 10c.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jul 4, 2007

Great start to this route, requiring balancy, slab technique. The moves were non-obvious, and the thought process was part of the fun.
By D. Shaw
Aug 6, 2009

Two hard parts, the rest easy. First hard part at 2nd bolt, about 10c.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Apr 6, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The area by the second bolt is certainly the crux. The moves are not obvious, and it takes some thought to figure out the best sequence. The steep part up high is strenuous but not that hard.
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