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Mt. Willard

Select Route:
Blue Balls 
Blue Ribbon T 
Blue Thunder 
Candlepin 
Cinema Gully 
Cleft, The 
Damsel in Distress 
East face slab right 
Elephant Head Gully 
Great Madness 
Gulley 1 
Hitchcock Gully 
Left Hand Monkey Wrench 
Read Between The Lines 
Streamline  
Trestle Gulley 

Mt. Willard  


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Elevation: 2,865'
Location: 44.20348, -71.41032 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,961
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008
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Description 

Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and could be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.

The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchock Gully and the east face slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.

The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.

Getting There 

Park at the top of the notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the Crawford Notch visitor's biulding. Many winter trails leave from this area as well. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Willard:
Elephant Head Gully   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   
Great Madness   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   
Read Between The Lines   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   
Trestle Gulley   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 75'   
East face slab right   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch   
Left Hand Monkey Wrench   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch   
Gulley 1   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   
Cinema Gully   WI2     Ice, 3 pitches, 600'   
The Cleft   WI2+     Ice, 2 pitches, 210'   
Hitchcock Gully   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-     Ice, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Willard

Featured Route For Mt. Willard
Upper Hitchcock Gully

Hitchcock Gully 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willard
The climb is broken into the lower and upper Hitchock gullies with a pitch of easy hiking between the two. The lower pitch is often used to provide access to the many options of the east face slabs. The lower pitch is somewhat thin, moderate ice and snow to a 5.5 rock finish. Protect the top with slings on good trees. I would only give the first pitch one star if it were by itself, unless you are interested in moderate mixed climbing. The upper Hitchock gully is a great WI 3- pitch in a d...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Mt. Willard Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Willey and Mt. WIllard, showing Willey's slide and the south face of Mt. Willard.  Photo taken from the top of Showstring Gully by Arthur Kehas
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Willey and Mt. WIllard, showing Willey's slide...
The consolation prize for climbing on Willard. Even on a foggy snowing day the view is incredible and makes you realize just how much vertical you gained.
The consolation prize for climbing on Willard. Eve...
Mt Willard seen from Mt Webster
Mt Willard seen from Mt Webster
Mt. Willard in February, with a party on Cinema Gulley
Mt. Willard in February, with a party on Cinema Gu...
Willard from the road on a sunny (but ass-chapping cold) morning in January 2013. <br /> <br />Many different lines can be seen.
Willard from the road on a sunny (but ass-chapping...

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