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 ADVANCED
Mt. Willard

Select Route:
Blue Balls 
Blue Ribbon T 
Blue Thunder 
Candlepin 
Cinema Gully 
Cleft, The 
Damsel in Distress 
East face slab right 
Elephant Head Gully 
Great Madness 
Gulley 1 
Hitchcock Gully 
Left Hand Monkey Wrench 
Read Between The Lines 
Streamline  
Trestle Gulley 

Mt. Willard  


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Elevation: 2,865'
Location: 44.20348, -71.41032 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,536
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008
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Description 

Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and could be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.

The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchock Gully and the east face slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.

The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.

Getting There 

Park at the top of the notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the Crawford Notch visitor's biulding. Many winter trails leave from this area as well. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Willard:
Elephant Head Gully   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   
Great Madness   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   
Read Between The Lines   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   
Trestle Gulley   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 75'   
East face slab right   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch   
Left Hand Monkey Wrench   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch   
Gulley 1   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   
Cinema Gully   WI2     Ice, 3 pitches, 600'   
The Cleft   WI2+     Ice, 2 pitches, 210'   
Hitchcock Gully   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-     Ice, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Willard

Featured Route For Mt. Willard
Me climbing Gully #1

Gulley 1 WI4  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willard
A beautiful classic ice climb. Climb gradually steepening ice for about 100' till the vertical headwall section. This can be done on the left at 4 or head on at 4+. Use a 60 rope(s) and belay back at the trees....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Mt. Willard Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Willey and Mt. WIllard, showing Willey's slide...
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Willey and Mt. WIllard, showing Willey's slide...
The consolation prize for climbing on Willard. Eve...
The consolation prize for climbing on Willard. Eve...
Mt Willard seen from Mt Webster
Mt Willard seen from Mt Webster
Mt. Willard in February, with a party on Cinema Gu...
Mt. Willard in February, with a party on Cinema Gu...
Willard from the road on a sunny (but ass-chapping...
Willard from the road on a sunny (but ass-chapping...

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