Mt. Willard Rock Climbing
When Hattie Gordon tended her garden. Mt Willard c...
NOTE: The winter ice routes for this area are found as a sub-area in the "area "NH ICE and ALPINE CLIMBING".
A multi-faceted area. The main slab has multi pitch slab and crack climbing in a nice sub alpine setting. Recent "revisited" climbs such as "Hugo's Horror" and "Time Traveler" have had widly-spaced bolts and secure double-bolt belays added to the APPROXIMATE (but not exact) line of the original route. These, as well as some of the older lines, now make for pleasant outings and a somewhat different experience from slabs like Whitehorse.
The recently developed Willey Brook Ravine, and "rediscovered" Butress No. 1 AREAs provide interesting 1 pitch climbs of a different, steeper sort. Buttress No. 1 "sports" several newer, bolted, NON-SPORT routes in the 5.6 - 5.8 range, as well as several trad climbs in the same grade range. Of course, there's an "X" ...."R/X" or two as well!
For years the classic approach was to drive west on NH Rt. 302 and park across the street from Elephant's Head, then walk back south east along the tracks over two trestles to where a short gully nearly reaches the tracks. (This approach, at least in the summer and fall when the sightseeing train runs, is, technically, trespassing.) Hike up 75 ft to the base of the slabs in the woods. "Standard" and "Hugo's" start at the low point, "Time Traveler" and "Across the Universe" are up and to the right 60-100 ft. "Star Trek", etc., are further right.
Another approach, and clearly the best for Willey Brook Ravine and Buttress No. 1 , and probably even for the Main Slab, is to park on Rt 302 at a gravel pullout on the west side of the road about a half mile above the Willey Slide pullout (coming from the south/east) or 1 1/2 miles below the AMC's Highland house (from the north/west). Coming from the south/east on Rt 302 this pull-out is on the left beyond a small stream (Willey Brook) comes in from the left, and JUST before the Saco River crosses underneath Rt 302.
A rocky logging-road starts from the rear of the parking, but quickly turns into a trail. Hike up the well-cairned trail to the actual "Hattie's Garden". (about 10-12 min)
To get to Willey Brook Ravine: From Hattie's Garden walk "down tracks" (south) to the big bridge and cut right into the woods. Follow the climbers trail for 2 min to the crag. (To be honest, this "trail" is obscure.)
To get to Buttress No. 1 and Main Slab, walk "Up-Tracks" (towards the cliff)
For Buttress No 1, walk about 1 to 2 minutes and look for the first little (8-inch) drainage channel through the tracks. About 30 more RR ties, and look for a cairn and steep climber's path up to the base of Buttress No.1, another 10-12 min. (More details, and photo of the "8-inch channel, in the But. No.1 AREA)
For Main Slab continue another 4-5 minutes to a boulder-gully with vegetation. (A wider, flat area with much poison ivy is on the right [south] side of the tracks here.) Up this "gully" 50-75 feet (any further and you may have the wrong 'gully'.) to the "toe" of the main slab.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
31 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Willard
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Willard
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Willard:
Featured Route For Mt. Willard
Lead Poisoning 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
: WM: Crawford Notch
: ... : Gulley No.1 Buttress
The climber that made the 2nd ascent, informed me that this Swain route should be pronounced "Leed Poisoning", as in "Who is the climber leading that route?" According to Webster, Swain and Cody required three attempts to finish this route! Webster/Swain listed the climb as 5.9, but other sources (NE Climbs) gives it a 5.10 which, considering the protection is still 1/4" bolts is probably best. START: About 30 ft right of the Mice & Men corner at a shallow right-facing corner. P1 Up the corner...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By burlap submariner
Sep 14, 2009
There is a new route on willard that was put up sometime in early 2007 that climbs the face and overlap thats about 50 feet down hill from the start to across the universe, if you walk left from across the universe's bolted start there will be an immediate drop off where the toe of the cliff starts to come down toward the train tracks, at that drop off look to your left and you will see one bolt, start for that bolt and follow your nose & lots of new bolts along the way to the tree ledge that splits the lower and upper cliffs....this is an excellent and quick way to get up to the tree ledge if someone else is on the universe....
By Robert Hall
Jul 25, 2014
See the 7/25/14 COMMENT to the climb Hattie's Garden for Beta on the "path" to "Gulley#1 Buttress".
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 5, 2014
Per Rob Hall's suggestions, I broke Mt. Willard down into sub areas. I have only climbed here once, so am not so familiar with the area. If anybody has any suggestions, corrections or more route information, let us know. Don't forget you have that blue 'Improve This Page' button. The area descriptions and directions could use some filling out.