multi pitch slab and crack with a nice sub alpine setting, tricky face climbing and runouts abound....
drive west on NH rt. 302 and park across the street from elephants head. Walk back south east along the tracks past two trestles to the base of the slabs in the woods. find a small carin on the right and walk up to the routes.
Across the Universe is located uphill from the obvious toe of the Mt. Willard slabs. There are two possible starts: 1a. Walk uphill from the toe, and start below a flaring corner/groove moving past two bolts (5.9) slabbing up 20 feet (unprotected) to a second bolt then moving farther right passing two more bolts (5.8) to a two bolt anchor below the headwall at a nice ledge. 1b. Walk farther up hill from the previous variation gaining higher ground. Head upwards over an easy headwall joining the ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
There is a new route on willard that was put up sometime in early 2007 that climbs the face and overlap thats about 50 feet down hill from the start to across the universe, if you walk left from across the universe's bolted start there will be an immediate drop off where the toe of the cliff starts to come down toward the train tracks, at that drop off look to your left and you will see one bolt, start for that bolt and follow your nose & lots of new bolts along the way to the tree ledge that splits the lower and upper cliffs....this is an excellent and quick way to get up to the tree ledge if someone else is on the universe....
See the 7/25/14 COMMENT to the climb Hattie's Garden for Beta on the "path" to "Gulley#1 Buttress".
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Aug 5, 2014
Per Rob Hall's suggestions, I broke Mt. Willard down into sub areas. I have only climbed here once, so am not so familiar with the area. If anybody has any suggestions, corrections or more route information, let us know. Don't forget you have that blue 'Improve This Page' button. The area descriptions and directions could use some filling out.