Nick Grant on a VERY early ascent of ATU (eb's) ma...
Description
multi pitch slab and crack with a nice sub alpine setting, tricky face climbing and runouts abound....
Getting There
drive west on NH rt. 302 and park across the street from elephants head. Walk back south east along the tracks past two trestles to the base of the slabs in the woods. find a small carin on the right and walk up to the routes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Willard:
The climb starts just right of the sport route Willy Brook Bandits. Start up a small corner (bolt) and follow the ramp left into the corner. Follow the obvious corner placing gear and make the crux moves at a second bolt. Continue out the top placing gear to a bolt anchor over the lip....[more]Browse More Classics in NH
There is a new route on willard that was put up sometime in early 2007 that climbs the face and overlap thats about 50 feet down hill from the start to across the universe, if you walk left from across the universe's bolted start there will be an immediate drop off where the toe of the cliff starts to come down toward the train tracks, at that drop off look to your left and you will see one bolt, start for that bolt and follow your nose & lots of new bolts along the way to the tree ledge that splits the lower and upper cliffs....this is an excellent and quick way to get up to the tree ledge if someone else is on the universe....