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Mt. Willard

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Ben Wall (crag by rt 302) 
Gulley n.1 Buttress 
Main Slab 
Upper Face 
Willey Brook Ravine 
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Mt. Willard  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 800'
Location: 44.2123, -71.4046 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,878
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Casey Bald on Aug 10, 2007
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Description 

A multi-faceted area. The main slab has multi pitch slab and crack climbing in a nice sub alpine setting. Recent "revisited" climbs such as Hugo's Horror And Time Traveler have had widly-spaced bolts and secure double-bolt belays added to the APPROXIMATE (but not exact) line of the original route. These, as well as some of the older lines, now make for pleasant outings and a somewhat different experience from slabs like Whitehorse.

The recently developed Willey Brook Ravine, and "rediscovered" Butress No. 1 AREAs provide interesting 1 pitch climbs of a different, steeper sort. But. No. 1 "sports" several newer, bolted, NON-SPORT routes in the 5.6 - 5.8 range, as well as several trad climbs in the same grade range. Of course, there's an "X" ...."R/X" or two as well!

Getting There 

For years the classic approach was to drive west on NH rt. 302 and park across the street from elephants head. Walk back south east along the tracks over two trestles to where a short gully nearly reaches the tracks. (This approach, at least in the summer and fall when the sightseeing train runs, is, technically, trespassing.) Hike up to the base of the slabs in the woods. Standard and Hugo's start at the low point, Time Traveler and Accross the Universe are up and to the right 100 ft. Star Treck, etc., are further right.

Another approach, and clearly the best for Willeys Ravine and Butress No. 1 , is given in the "Getting There" section of the Butress No.1 AREA. This approach is also a faster approach to the slabs than the (long) walk in along the RR tracks from the notch, although it does involve some "up" hiking.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Willard:
Hugo's Horror Revisited   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'   Main Slab
Hattie's Garden (the climb)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 120'   Gulley n.1 Buttress
Salespitch   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'   Upper Face
Across the Universe   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'   Main Slab
Browse More Classics in Mt. Willard

Featured Route For Mt. Willard
Hugo's Horror (approx.) and climb Right of Hugo's

Hugo's Horror Revisited 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NH : Mt. Willard : Main Slab
Hugo's is a new take on an older nebulous line that was originally done by Hugo Stadmuller. Locate the prominent toe of rock that falls just shy of the rr tracks and hike up hill, at the toe of the cliff you will see the wet streak that is the winter route cinema gully, walk climbers right about 25 feet uphill until you see a bolt on a slab.1. climb a very easy slab to a tree ledge passing a couple bolts on the way. 2. behind the tree ledge there is a small but short head wall, climb this on gea...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Mt. Willard Slideshow Add Photo
When Hattie Gordon tended her garden. Mt Willard c...
When Hattie Gordon tended her garden. Mt Willard c...
The Cliff, quite impressive!
The Cliff, quite impressive!
Hatie's Garden
Hatie's Garden
Mt. Willard in late September
Mt. Willard in late September

Comments on Mt. Willard Add Comment
Show which comments
By burlap submariner
Sep 14, 2009
There is a new route on willard that was put up sometime in early 2007 that climbs the face and overlap thats about 50 feet down hill from the start to across the universe, if you walk left from across the universe's bolted start there will be an immediate drop off where the toe of the cliff starts to come down toward the train tracks, at that drop off look to your left and you will see one bolt, start for that bolt and follow your nose & lots of new bolts along the way to the tree ledge that splits the lower and upper cliffs....this is an excellent and quick way to get up to the tree ledge if someone else is on the universe....
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Jul 25, 2014
See the 7/25/14 COMMENT to the climb Hattie's Garden for Beta on the "path" to "Gulley#1 Buttress".
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 5, 2014
Per Rob Hall's suggestions, I broke Mt. Willard down into sub areas. I have only climbed here once, so am not so familiar with the area. If anybody has any suggestions, corrections or more route information, let us know. Don't forget you have that blue 'Improve This Page' button. The area descriptions and directions could use some filling out.