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Mt. Willard

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Ben Wall (crag by rt 302) 
Gulley No.1 Buttress 
Main Slab 
Upper Face / Upper Tier 
Willey Brook Ravine 

Mt. Willard Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 800'
Location: 44.2123, -71.4046 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,155
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Casey Bald on Aug 10, 2007
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When Hattie Gordon tended her garden. Mt Willard c...

Description 

NOTE: The winter ice routes for this area are found as a sub-area in the "area "NH ICE and ALPINE CLIMBING".

A multi-faceted area. The main slab has multi pitch slab and crack climbing in a nice sub alpine setting. Recent "revisited" climbs such as "Hugo's Horror" and "Time Traveler" have had widly-spaced bolts and secure double-bolt belays added to the APPROXIMATE (but not exact) line of the original route. These, as well as some of the older lines, now make for pleasant outings and a somewhat different experience from slabs like Whitehorse.

The recently developed Willey Brook Ravine, and "rediscovered" Butress No. 1 AREAs provide interesting 1 pitch climbs of a different, steeper sort. Buttress No. 1 "sports" several newer, bolted, NON-SPORT routes in the 5.6 - 5.8 range, as well as several trad climbs in the same grade range. Of course, there's an "X" ...."R/X" or two as well!

Getting There 

The shortest and fastest approach to the Main Slab, Buttress No. 1, and Willey Brook Ravine is the "Hatties Garden Path". Park on Rt 302 at a gravel pullout on the west side of the road about a half mile above the Willey Slide pullout (coming from the south/east) or 1 1/2 miles below the AMC's Highland house (from the north/west). Coming from the south/east on Rt 302 (i.e from North Conway and Bartlett) this pull-out is on the left beyond a small stream (Willey Brook) comes in from the left, and JUST before the Saco River crosses underneath Rt 302.

A rocky logging-road starts from the rear of the parking, but quickly turns into a trail. Hike up the well-cairned trail to the actual "Hattie's Garden". (about 10 min)

To get to Willey Brook Ravine: From Hattie's Garden walk "down tracks" (south) to the big bridge and cut right into the woods. Follow the climbers trail for 2 min to the crag. (To be honest, this "trail" is obscure.)

To get to Buttress No. 1 and Main Slab, walk "Up-Tracks" (towards the cliff)

For Buttress No 1, walk about 1 to 2 minutes and look for the first little (8-inch) drainage channel through the tracks. About 30 more RR ties, and look for a cairn and steep climber's path up to the base of Buttress No.1, another 10-12 min. (More details, and photo of the "8-inch channel, in the But. No.1 AREA)

For Main Slab continue another 4-5 minutes to a boulder-gully with vegetation. (A wider, flat area with much poison ivy is on the right [south] side of the tracks here.) Up this "gully" 50-75 feet (any further and you may have the wrong 'gully'.) to the "toe" of the main slab. Standard and Hugos start here. Go right along the slab for "Time Space" and "Across the Universe".

For the "Star Trek / A Night Climb" slab continue along the RR Tracks about another 150 ties and look for a cairn. Follow cairns up. At the base of the slab, go up the left side of the slab for Star Trek. For "A Night Climb" go up and right, following a zig-zagging path to the base. Avoid going too far right.


The Non-Recommended Approach - For years the classic approach was to drive west on NH Rt. 302 and park across the street from Elephant's Head, then walk back south east along the tracks over two trestles to where the gully leading to "Standard" nearly reaches the tracks, about 20-25min. (This approach, at least in the summer and fall when the sightseeing train runs, is, technically, trespassing.)

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

35 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',12],['5.7',8],['5.8',8],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Willard

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Willard:
First Shot   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 95'   Gulley No.1 Buttress
Part the Sea   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'   Gulley No.1 Buttress
Hugo's Horror Revisited   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 700'   Main Slab
Ground Control   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'   Upper Face / Upper Tier
Time-Space Continuum aka "Time Traveler "Revisted"   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 700'   Main Slab
Salespitch   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'   Upper Face / Upper Tier
Across the Universe   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 700'   Main Slab
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Willard

Featured Route For Mt. Willard
Rock Climbing Photo: First Shot - from the side

First Shot 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NH : WM: Crawford Notch : ... : Gulley No.1 Buttress
First Shot is the located on the Hidden Buttress on Mt Willard. It is the farthest route to the right as you ascend the talus slope from the RR tracks. The protection reflects the general vib of the area (sparse) but is adequate. The climbing generally cruises at about 5.6 with bolts just where you want them. Have fun!...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Mt. Willard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Willard in Early Winter Season
BETA PHOTO: Mt Willard in Early Winter Season
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Willard in late September
Mt. Willard in late September
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Willard - If you extend the right-hand branch ...
Mt. Willard - If you extend the right-hand branch ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A memorable view on one of the approachs
A memorable view on one of the approachs
Rock Climbing Photo: Hatie's Garden
Hatie's Garden
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cliff, quite impressive!
The Cliff, quite impressive!

Comments on Mt. Willard Add Comment
Show which comments
By burlap submariner
Sep 14, 2009
There is a new route on willard that was put up sometime in early 2007 that climbs the face and overlap thats about 50 feet down hill from the start to across the universe, if you walk left from across the universe's bolted start there will be an immediate drop off where the toe of the cliff starts to come down toward the train tracks, at that drop off look to your left and you will see one bolt, start for that bolt and follow your nose & lots of new bolts along the way to the tree ledge that splits the lower and upper cliffs....this is an excellent and quick way to get up to the tree ledge if someone else is on the universe....
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Jul 25, 2014
See the 7/25/14 COMMENT to the climb Hattie's Garden for Beta on the "path" to "Gulley#1 Buttress".
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 5, 2014
Per Rob Hall's suggestions, I broke Mt. Willard down into sub areas. I have only climbed here once, so am not so familiar with the area. If anybody has any suggestions, corrections or more route information, let us know. Don't forget you have that blue 'Improve This Page' button. The area descriptions and directions could use some filling out.

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