Mt. Washington Rock Climbing
Mt Washington lifts her veil for a moment
Mt. Washington is an eroded volcanic plug in the central Oregon Cascades, the main rock types are basalts, including andesite. As with most Oregon cascade mountains the rock quality is generally crumbly and poor, however the quality does improve at the summit's exposed volcanic plug (still not super though). The majority of summits seem to happen from mid-June through September, although year round summit possibilities exist. There are several routes to the summit though the most popular is the North Ridge route. Make sure to sign the summit register!
From Highway 20 you take the turn off for Big Lake/Hoodoo ski bowl near Santiam Pass and continue on this road for 4.2 miles (US forest Service road #2690) till the road ends at the Patjens Lake trail head there is parking here and all along the roads numerous turn-outs. Take the Patjens lake trail for about a mile (shortly after it leaves the lake) then cut south-east through game trails to meet up with the Pacific-Crest trail and continue along the PCT for another mile or so till you'll see the climbers trail to your left, it is supposedly marked by a cairn but is snow fields are still present it can be easy to miss so pay close attention, if you hit Cold water Springs you've gone to far. Follow the climbers trail/bushwhack east till you hit the ridge desired for your route. An alternative and my recommended approach (although it is a couple miles longer) is to park at the PCT trailhead turnout off Hwy 20, about 3/4 mile further down the road if comming from the west. From the trailhead take the PCT south till the climbers trail just before Cold Water Springs. Both trailheads require self issued wilderness permits available at the trailheads. And I'm not sure but think you might need a Northwest Forest Pass or equivalent. Call the McKenzie River Ranger District Phone: 541-822-3381 for additional information.
Climbing Season For the Oregon Volcanoes area.
Weather station 6.0 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Washington
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Washington
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Washington:
North Ridge Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Easy Snow Trad, Snow, 2 pitches
Featured Route For Mt. Washington
Southeast Spur 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
: Oregon Volcanoes
: Mt. Washington
Maybe the best climb on Mt Washington. For the High Cascade in Oregon this route has excellent rock, which is poor by the Sierras and North Cascade standards.The climb can be divided into four distant parts.Part 1: About 70m of fun, clean slab with many cracks for protection. The slabs begin on the south side of the ridge about 50 feet from the foot of the ridge. The slabs end on top of the ridge at two dead snags.Part 2: A fun easy 3rd and easy 5th class walk along a narrow ridge for about ...[more] Browse More Classics in OR