Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 8,687 ft
GPS: 43.15208, -122.06639
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,016 total · 110/month
Shared By: Bruce Lacroix on Jul 9, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

Description Suggest change

Located in the Mt. Thielsen Wilderness and the Umpqua National Forest, Mt. Thielsen is only a short drive north of Oregon's Crater Lake National Park.  Once named the "Lightning Rod of the Cascades" this volcanic peak sports one of the most memorable summit blocks in the state and can be gawked at from many viewpoints on OR138, OR97, as well as OR230.  Easily spotted from the summit of the Crater Lake Rim (Garfield Peak), Mt. Thielsen is a visual attraction as well as a physical one with the West Ridge falling into a classic intro to mountaineering route for early local aspirants, as well as one of the summer time test pieces for mountain athletes/runners. The East Face of Mt. Thielsen also boasts the hardest alpine route in the state of OR which has never been repeated ("Brainless Child").

Respect the mountain as storms and steep slopes often create hazards such as lightning strike, avalanche, as well as rock and ice fall.  Routes on Mt. Thielsen should be taken seriously as all have magnificent exposure (even the easier West Ridge), and most have the overhead hazards of falling rocks and snow.  Every aspect of the mountain is steep enough for avalanche so "Know Before You Go" and plan accordingly.  The old timers used to say that if there were grey clouds within 6 miles of the peak to "GTF off!".  This is due to the geological prominence's propensity to draw in the lightning strikes.  Many reports of visually watching this occurrence, as well as "feeling the vibes" near the summit have been made over the years.

Getting There Suggest change

Located in central Oregon. The Mt. Thielsen trailhead is on the East side of route 138, 1.4 miles North of the intersection of routes 138 and 230. A good trail leads to the PCT and then a climbers trail to the summit. 5 miles +/- car to summit.

5 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: (G) Mt. Thielsen Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Thielsen

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 66
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 8
Northwest Arete
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Ridge
 66
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
Northwest Arete
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Mt. Thielsen »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments