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Occasionally referred to as "The Eiger of North America", Mt Temple is perhaps the most prominent of the Canadian Rockies, pearched sentinel-like between Banff & Lake Louise, and towering over the picturesque Moraine Lake. Temple's fortuitous location, dramatic appearance, and massive bulk make the peak equally well-known to climbers and tourists. Its magnificent, sprawling North Face, over a mile wide and nearly 5000' high, is one of the few such North Faces visible from paved roads in the entire range. At 11,636', Temple is the highest peak in the Banff Region, but is also one of the highest peaks in the Canadian Rockies, though its real attraction is its near-European accessibility and excellent, engaging routes of all difficulties.
Temple's enduring charms have ensured the peak would play a pivotal role in every significant era of North American mountaineering. Temple earned an early spot in the local annals as the first 11K'-er to be climbed in the range. The American's 1894 ascent of the Southwest Ridge was also notable in that it was completed without guides, which was rare at the time. This route has enjoyed unparalleled popularity to this day.
Mt Temple sits prominently a few miles south of Lake Louise, on the west side of the Icefields Parkway. To approach, follow the popular Moraine Lake road south from Lake Louise Drive towards Moraine Lake. Trails depart from various points along the road depending on the route.
3 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Temple:
East Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow PG13 Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 5000'
Featured Route For Mt. Temple
Greenwood-Locke 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 Steep Snow R North America : Canada : ... : Mt. Temple
This legendary alpine route was the first line climbed to the top of Temple's dramatic 4500' North Face. As perhaps the first great Canadian North Wall to be climbed, the first ascent ushered in the beginning of a new age of conquest in the Canadian Rockies. Although a notch shy of the mythic "5.9 A2" grade, this is a test-piece route that should be on every aspiring alpinist's must-do list. While in good, dry conditions this route is fairly routinely freed*, the face is still an intimidating...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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