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Elevation: 9,415 ft
GPS: 47.4773, -120.9022
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Kris Gorny on Jul 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

Description Suggest change

The second highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington state, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area. The North Ridge climb on Mt. Stuart is one of the 50 North American Classic Climbs. Very beautiful mountain with high relative elevation of 5,335ft and serious approaches. The easiest way to get to the top (and off the mountain) is from the south via the Cascadian Couloir. The nearby Ingalls Peak, which is to the west of Mt. Stuart has some interesting climbing as well.

Getting There Suggest change

To approach Mt. Stuart from the south, take 970 from Cle Elum for about 11 miles and turn left into Teanaway Road. After about 14 miles Teanaway Road splits into North and West Fork Teanaway. Take the North Fork Teanaway Road to the trailhead parking lot at its end. Hike up Ingalls Way trail. At the second junction at 5600', take Longs Pass trail for Cascadian Couloir, or continue on Ingalls Way for Ingalls Lake, Mt. Stuart's West and North Ridges and go over Ingalls Pass.

For West and North Ridge, traverse Ingalls Lake in its west side, drop down to the meadows and ascent the faint trail onto Stuart Pass. From here find a way through talus to the shoulder below West Ridge and continue to Goat Pass.

14 Total Climbs

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Location: Mt Stuart Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt Stuart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
AI2-3 Steep Snow
 15
Ice Cliff Glacier
Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI2 M4
 10
Stuart Glacier Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
 17
Sherpa Glacier
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow
 135
West Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 131
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine 18 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 280
Direct North Ridge
Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Gorillas Direct
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow
 8
Girth Pillar
Ice, Snow, Alpine 11 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Easy Snow
 15
Gorillas in the Mist
Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ice Cliff Glacier
 15
AI2-3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Stuart Glacier Couloir
 10
WI2 M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
Sherpa Glacier
 17
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
West Ridge
 135
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 10 pitches
North Ridge
 131
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 18 pitches
Direct North Ridge
 280
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
Gorillas Direct
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Girth Pillar
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 11 pitches
Gorillas in the Mist
 15
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches
King Kong - Gorillas Direct…
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mt Stuart »

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