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Mt Rainer Clothing,..Parka?

Original Post
JasonSH · · unknown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 90

I'm seriously planning to head out with climbing partners to do Mt Rainer next May, however, I'm getting my act together now nice and early to mitigate last minute issues.

Parka,...
Not sure which way to go here.
Not familiar with the pacific northwest and Rainer in May Ive read a little on clothing for August and June but not much info have I found about Parkas specifically.

What's some recommendations from those who've done Rainer in May? Are we talking, like Patagonia Fitz Roy here or lighter?...
Thanks all!

JasonSH · · unknown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 90

Geez guys,.. nothin?

Ancent · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 34

Do you mean down jacket or puffy? As with anything high and cold, I would just bring the nicest/warmest down jacket you have for the rests, stops, and camping, and also bring some more active warm layers (fleeces, R1, etc). I was up on Rainier March/April a couple of years ago and I brought my standard puffy/cold weather mountaineering attire, which happened to be some version of Mountain Hardwear's bigger puffy. I used a thin R1-type layer with a softshell for the climbing (walking really) and popped on the puffy whenever I'm stopped or camping.

Things will always be variable, so bring the warmest thing you can. I don't think there's ever a reason to skimp on the nice down jacket when you're above 10k feet or in snow.

EDIT: Also, it depends on your plan and route but winter-like conditions/ascents require different plans then the standard summer-guided-type of climb. That's obvious, but we weren't trudging up high at 2 AM.. it'd be brutally cold and there's no reason to summit prior to sunrise (i.e., be the highest at the absolute coldest point in the night). May is closer to warmer season however, and you'll have to figure out your game plan.

Andy Novak · · Bailey, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 370

You probably wont need it. But, it would be nice to have for around camp and if summit day is on the colder side.

jfs · · Bend, OR · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 5

Andy is a little off base there. Take a puffy. Not really optional or in the"nice to have" category. :-) Certainly may be needed during May and sometimes in July.

Something like the Fitz Roy combined with your other layers. May can be cold.

You might not need it ... But it's Rainier ... You might also REALLY need it.

Tobin Story · · Woodinville, WA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 35

Agree with others here who've said that a warm puffy is definitely a requirement on Rainier. This is especially true in your case because 1)You're coming from out of state, so you have to pick your dates in advance. You may end up with less-than-perfect weather, 2)You've never been up before, so you can't count on moving fast to stay warm. You may be moving more slowly due to altitude or routefinding. 3)May is still really early season. With stable weather in late July or August, you can probably get by with a 60g/m piece like a nanopuff. I wouldn't push your luck with that in May. My recommendation would be a combination of a 60g/m and an 80ish g/m jacket as recommended by Dane in this thread on Cascade Climbers cascadeclimbers.com/synthet…. If you really want just one big puffy, then something like a Patagonia DAS or the new Outdoor Research Puffy (I think called the Perch...).

Nathan Sward · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 145

Definitely bring a down or similar jacket. Even when it is really warm in the area, it is REALLY COLD on top. I climbed mid-July, roasting during daylight hours. But when we summited around 5am, I ended up wearing every piece of clothing I had. Without a puffer, I wouldn't have been able to hang out at the top, enjoying the view.

You don't need to buy an expensive one, however, especially if you're not going to use it frequently. A cheap one (~low $100s) might weight an extra few ounces, but it'll keep you warm enough.

Base + insulating layer + soft shell + puffer + rain coat/shell. You'll be ready for just about anything.

I second Tobin, though. If you climb in May or June, you'll need to be more serious about warmth.

Shane Rowe · · Houston, TX · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 63

Hey Jason, So I climbed Rainier May 29th of this past year. You will need to bring a puffy/parka (whatever you want to call it). When we sumitted, it was 7 degrees F with 30mph winds...brought it to around -16 degrees F. We primarily used the parka at rest breaks, but actually climbed in it on the final summit push. I used MH's Nilas Jacket...it's a very warm jacket and I was glad I had it.

This being said, weather on Rainier varies quite a bit, we were in pretty bad conditions. I've heard of others sumitting towards the end of may in a long sleeve shirt and a light jacket...it just depends, but I would urge anybody to go prepared for the worst conditions. Good luck!

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

I interpret the OP regarding a parka as being a hard or perhaps soft shell. Anytime of year Rainer weather can be pissing sideways. The PNW is still one place I like a hard shell when the weather is marginal. Even in the summer months. What is nice about a hard sell is that when all rimed up it can be taken off once in a tent and not be dropping rime everywhere.

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

Another option, if you aren't planning on frequently using a thicker down parka don't waste money buying one. Just rent from feathered friends when you come to Seattle and have a chance to pick up an additional gear you might need as well.

JasonSH · · unknown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 90

Awesome responses guys! Much appreciated!

JasonSH · · unknown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 90

As a side question,.. regarding a HARDSHELL jacket to go OVER a puffy...

Would it be wise to stay away from anything BLACK in color in order to not bake in the sun nad have more versatility between a cold SUNNY windy day where the black could heat up...or is that really just not a concern at all on the mountains??

Tobin Story · · Woodinville, WA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 35

On the question of black hardshells, I'd say don't overthink it, just get whatever color hardshell you want. I don't think the sun has that big of a role when you are in otherwise cold conditions. If it's cold and windy but still sunny, I doubt you'd notice the very faint difference a dark colored shell would make. If it is sunny but isn't cold or windy, take off the hardshell and puffy, otherwise you'll roast! Honestly I almost never wear my hardshell unless it is raining/snowing. The other 90% of the time is the realm of softshells.

Also, it can be a good idea to bring a light-colored long sleeve shirt for the hike up to Muir. That is one area you'll feel the heat of the sun, and you don't want to be wearing anything other than a baselayer.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
Tobin Story wrote:On the question of black hardshells, I'd say don't overthink it, just get whatever color hardshell you want. ... Also, it can be a good idea to bring a light-colored long sleeve shirt for the hike up to Muir. That is one area you'll feel the heat of the sun, and you don't want to be wearing anything other than a baselayer.
I agree with the above. Especially the comment about light colored base layer. I joking go into stealth mode with a white top and bottom base layer. It makes a big difference when it is warm out.
Shane Rowe · · Houston, TX · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 63

Jason, I don't consider that much of a concern. I do, however, tend to stay with brighter colors in my hardshell jacket mostly because if I'm wearing it there's a good chance visibility is low and the brighter color makes me easier to be seen! Hope that helps.

JasonSH · · unknown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 90
Shane HTX wrote:Jason, I don't consider that much of a concern. I do, however, tend to stay with brighter colors in my hardshell jacket mostly because if I'm wearing it there's a good chance visibility is low and the brighter color makes me easier to be seen! Hope that helps.
I agree on the visibility issue.

I was looking at the Outdoor Research Foray jacket,...gor tex,.. sounds good,then there's the Outdoor Research Axion,.. sounds perfect but pricey!..no sales etc to be found.
jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

You've got almost a year so just be patient, there will be sales. I paid around $250 for my Axiom without trying very hard. No pro deal or anything, just wait a few months for a holiday sale to happen and add coupons/Active Junky etc..

Two parkas that are relatively easy to find on sale and more than adequate would be the Patagonia DAS and Black Diamond Stance (Parka, not Hoody). Synthetic - inexpensive, low maintenance, works when wet. Should be able to get one <$200.

Somebody posted a good deal on a midweight puffy the other day, ~45% off.

mountainproject.com/v/great…

Haven't done Rainer in May so not sure if you may need more. Depends a great deal on how cold you personally run, might be better to play it safe and bring a bigger coat until you get some experience.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577

Why May and not July? The weather can be very unstable in May, you are far more likley to reach the summit in mid season. In May there is a high probability you will be stormed out.

Shane Rowe · · Houston, TX · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 63
JasonSH wrote: I agree on the visibility issue. I was looking at the Outdoor Research Foray jacket,...gor tex,.. sounds good,then there's the Outdoor Research Axion,.. sounds perfect but pricey!..no sales etc to be found.
steepandcheap.com has both the Foray and the Axiom on sale right now (limited sizes).
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
C Brooks wrote:Why May and not July? The weather can be very unstable in May, you are far more likley to reach the summit in mid season. In May there is a high probability you will be stormed out.
By July many of the routes are not climbable and one is limited to only a few routes.
Nathan Sward · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 145

On the hard shell: my recommendation is just buy a "rain coat". For Rainier, I used a Marmot Precip (on sale for ~60). Does exactly what you need it to. Bombproof in rain. Pit zips to dump heat, if you need it. Much less breathable than technical "hard shells", but that won't matter for you! Seriously, a hard shell is one of the last articles of clothing I would spend money on.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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