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The crags are located on top of Mt. Molly. The area can be located from several directions, but the easiest is to follow directions to Devils Den. The cliffs range from 30-80 feet tall, and offer excellent views of Merrymeeting Lake. Mount Molly has four distinct sections of cliff, Right End, Satellite Wall, Central Wall, and the Left End.
You can walk to Mt. Molly from Devils Den in about 20-25 minutes. If you have 4WD drive past the parking lot for Devils Den and take a right at the T. Continue up over the hill and down the other side to a swamp. Go up the hill on the road to a grass pull off on the left with a private road, park here. Walk up the private road for 75 yards and then turn left at a cairn onto a logging road. Follow the logging road for 10 min. At set of cairns turn right into the woods on a climbers trail. Walk to the left of a dirty north facing slab and follow the trail to the top of the mountain about 5 minutes. The trail will bring you up to the Right End.
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Featured Route For Mt. Molly
Pump Up the Valuum 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b NH : New Durham Area (South of ... : ... : The Alcove
Look for a large flake up high to locate the climb. Start up the slab corner for 25' placing gear. At the overhang fire straight up on great holds with excellent movement past 3 bolts. Take care when using the massive flake. 2 bolt anchor awaits at the top....[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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