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Mt. Molly

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Central Wall 
Left End 
Molly's Lower Area 
Right End 
Satellite Wall 

Mt. Molly  Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.50252, -71.17003 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chinos on Oct 21, 2010
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Parking area for Mt Molly

Description 

The crags are located on top of Mt. Molly. The area can be located from several directions, but the easiest is to follow directions to Devils Den. The cliffs range from 30-80 feet tall, and offer excellent views of Merrymeeting Lake. Mount Molly has four distinct sections of cliff, Right End, Satellite Wall, Central Wall, and the Left End.

Getting There 

You can walk to Mt. Molly from Devils Den in about 20-25 minutes. If you have 4WD drive past the parking lot for Devils Den and take a right at the T. Continue up over the hill and down the other side to a swamp. Go up the hill on the road to a grass pull off on the left with a private road, park here. Walk up the private road for 75 yards and then turn left at a cairn onto a logging road. Follow the logging road for 10 min. At set of cairns turn right into the woods on a climbers trail. Walk to the left of a dirty north facing slab and follow the trail to the top of the mountain about 5 minutes. The trail will bring you up to the Right End.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

34 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',4],['5.9',7],['5.10',12],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Molly

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Molly :
Metalblade   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   Right End
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Molly

Featured Route For Mt. Molly
Rock Climbing Photo: This route can be done in the pouring rain and at ...

Pump Up the Valuum 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  NH : Lakes Region : ... : The Alcove
Look for a large flake up high to locate the climb. Start up the slab corner for 25' placing gear. At the overhang fire straight up on great holds with excellent movement past 3 bolts. Take care when using the massive flake. 2 bolt anchor awaits at the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Mt. Molly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Satellite Wall at Mt. Molly
Satellite Wall at Mt. Molly

Comments on Mt. Molly Add Comment
Show which comments
By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Oct 21, 2010
The cat is out of the bag. this is a great place if you want to get a pump on a rainy day. some of the best routes in the area are out there.
By tommyguns
Jul 29, 2013
The climbing here is so fun, but based on the approach trail and overgrowth this area is hardly getting used...
By NEKlimb
Apr 30, 2016
Has anyone climbed here recently? Even last year? I live in Vermont most of the year but work at a camp in New Durham in the summer time and am hoping to have some time this year to check it out. I have climbed at the den before when the road was still open but never knew that this spot was here.

Any beta on getting there different than the description? Is this road also closed?

Anything would be helpful. Looking at maps online it looked like it would be fairly easy to get to from the Merrymeeting side.

Thanks.

-Lou
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Apr 30, 2016
Lou, it is very easy to find the Mt Molly access from North Shore Road on Merrymeeting Lake. There is a gate immediately off North Shore, but even if it is locked it is only a 10-15 minute walk to the parking spot.
By MaxMac
Jul 22, 2016
If you're coming from north shore road does that mean the cairn and turn off to the logging road is a bit before the parking spot / after the turn off on the left to devils den?
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Jul 23, 2016
From North Shore Road, go up a long gradual hill, staying right at a fork, and you will see a clearing on the right at the top of the hill; this is the parking for Mt Molly. If you continue on this road past the Mt Molly parking, it drops steeply down to a beaver pond and small stream, then uphill a few hundred yards to where you turn left for Devils Den.


Rock Climbing Photo: My Molly parking.
My Molly parking.


Hope this helps.

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