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Mt Kineo

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Cliff's Left (Shawty's) 
Cliff's Right 
Kineo Ice Climbs 
Main Face, The 
Overhangs, The 

Mt Kineo  


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Elevation: 1,500'
Location: 45.6766, -69.7383 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,968
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bob blair on Aug 25, 2009
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Access Issue: Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mnt. Kineo is one of the largest rock faces in New England. Over 1 mile wide and 800+ ft vert. It is generally southeast/ east facing and is well known as the centerpoint of Mooshead Lake.

The rock is a Felsite/ ryolite, very hard, and depending on it's orientation, either the most wonderful or treacherous stuff you can find. Native Americans prized the rock for tools and ability to develop razor sharp edges. It is beatiful to behold.

No known assents of this feature exist prior to 1983 when the main arret was FA by Bob Blair and Jonathan Stevens, (Trappah's Line 5.10) The route begins from the water and follows a natural course up to the top.

Other routes were also established across the face during the same period.

This behemouth of a cliff is undergoing constant shedding of all sizes and shapes of chunks so approach with caution. There is a well worn scenic trail to the summit and old fire tower. The views of Moosehead Lake are spectacular!

Getting There 

Rt 95 north to Newport, ME follow various rts - signs to Greenville - Mooshead Lake region. Follow west side of lake to Rockwood, ME. Launch boat. You can't miss it.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mt Kineo
All credit to Jeff Butterfield and Acadia Mountain Guides for this photo.

Main(e?)line WI5+  ME : Mt Kineo : Kineo Ice Climbs
A classic ice climb of the Northeast, burly and challenging.(I've been searching all over the internet, but can't find any info about this climb, if anyone has any, please let me know)...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Mt Kineo Slideshow Add Photo
the cliffs of Kineo
the cliffs of Kineo
kineo from the air
kineo from the air
the tallest cliff
BETA PHOTO: the tallest cliff

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