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Cliff's Left (Shawty's) 
Cliff's Right 
Kineo Ice Climbs 
Main Face, The 
Overhangs, The 

Mt Kineo 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,500'
Lat, Long: 45.6766, -69.7383 Map
Page Views: 8,096. Good page? (2 likes)   
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: bob blair on Aug 25, 2009

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Access Issue: Private Property MORE INFO >>>


the cliffs of Kineo

Description 

Mnt. Kineo is one of the largest rock faces in New England. Over 1 mile wide and 800+ ft vert. It is generally southeast/ east facing and is well known as the centerpoint of Mooshead Lake.

The rock is a Felsite/ ryolite, very hard, and depending on it's orientation, either the most wonderful or treacherous stuff you can find. Native Americans prized the rock for tools and ability to develop razor sharp edges. It is beatiful to behold.

No known assents of this feature exist prior to 1983 when the main arret was FA by Bob Blair and Jonathan Stevens, (Trappah's Line 5.10) The route begins from the water and follows a natural course up to the top.

Other routes were also established across the face during the same period.

This behemouth of a cliff is undergoing constant shedding of all sizes and shapes of chunks so approach with caution. There is a well worn scenic trail to the summit and old fire tower. The views of Moosehead Lake are spectacular!


Getting There 

Rt 95 north to Newport, ME follow various rts - signs to Greenville - Mooshead Lake region. Follow west side of lake to Rockwood, ME. Launch boat. You can't miss it.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt Kineo:
Main(e?)line   WI5+     Ice, Alpine, 300 feet   Kineo Ice Climbs
Claw of the Toxic Walrus   5.8 PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV   The Main Face
Trappah's Line   5.10a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV   The Main Face
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Featured Route For Mt Kineo
All credit to Jeff Butterfield and Acadia Mountain Guides for this photo.

Main(e?)line WI5+  ME : Mt Kineo : Kineo Ice Climbs
A classic ice climb of the Northeast, burly and challenging.(I've been searching all over the internet, but can't find any info about this climb, if anyone has any, please let me know)...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME


Photos of Mt Kineo Slideshow Add Photo
the tallest cliff

BETA PHOTO: the tallest cliff

kineo from the air

kineo from the air

Kineo from the air today

Kineo from the air today