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Mt Kineo

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Cliff's Left (Shawty's) 
Cliff's Right 
Kineo Ice Climbs 
Main Face, The 
Overhangs, The 

Mt Kineo Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 1,500'
Location: 45.6766, -69.7383 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,584
Administrators: Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bob blair on Aug 25, 2009
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Access Issue: Private Property MORE INFO >>>


Mnt. Kineo is one of the largest rock faces in New England. Over 1 mile wide and 800+ ft vert. It is generally southeast/ east facing and is well known as the centerpoint of Mooshead Lake.

The rock is a Felsite/ ryolite, very hard, and depending on it's orientation, either the most wonderful or treacherous stuff you can find. Native Americans prized the rock for tools and ability to develop razor sharp edges. It is beatiful to behold.

No known assents of this feature exist prior to 1983 when the main arret was FA by Bob Blair and Jonathan Stevens, (Trappah's Line 5.10) The route begins from the water and follows a natural course up to the top.

Other routes were also established across the face during the same period.

This behemouth of a cliff is undergoing constant shedding of all sizes and shapes of chunks so approach with caution. There is a well worn scenic trail to the summit and old fire tower. The views of Moosehead Lake are spectacular!

Getting There 

Rt 95 north to Newport, ME follow various rts - signs to Greenville - Mooshead Lake region. Follow west side of lake to Rockwood, ME. Launch boat. You can't miss it.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 6.5 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Mt Kineo
Rock Climbing Photo: All credit to Jeff Butterfield and Acadia Mountain...

Main(e?)line WI5+  ME : Mt Kineo : Kineo Ice Climbs
A classic ice climb of the Northeast, burly and challenging.(I've been searching all over the internet, but can't find any info about this climb, if anyone has any, please let me know)...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Mt Kineo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the cliffs of Kineo
the cliffs of Kineo
Rock Climbing Photo: kineo from the air
kineo from the air
Rock Climbing Photo: the tallest cliff
BETA PHOTO: the tallest cliff

Comments on Mt Kineo Add Comment
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By Jonathan Steitzer
From: midcoast, maine
Dec 19, 2014
Hey - anyone who's climbed this in the past, what's the story? Before we climbed this I called around to every guide outfit in the state and besides the winter ascents of Maine Line no-one knew anything about any rock climbing that had occured, but we found plenty of old gear and a mysterious shiny bolt line. Anyone have any info or stories here?

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