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Mt Kenya

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NE Pillar of Nellion T 
North Face Standard Route T 
Point John T 
Southeast Face of Nelion  T 
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Mt Kenya Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 17,000'
Location: -0.1526, 37.3079 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,607
Administrators: BigRed11, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Hans Florine on Jan 29, 2010
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Description 

Mt Kenya is a huge alpine objective with a large variety of difficulties and climbing styles. That being said, all climbs should be taken extremely seriously as weather can be fickle, even in the dry season. Rescue is far away or non-existent and you will be on your own if anything happens. Multiple people die every year on this mountain, most of them hikers, so don't let the presence of school groups on the approach fool you.

But it's not all grim! This is a beautiful mountain, made all the more incredible by its simply improbable setting. Ice, snow, jagged spires, long routes, and incredible flora and fauna make Mt Kenya unique in the alpine climbing world.

See the page for SE face of Nelion for a ton more beta. Pick up a guidebook from the Mountain Club of Kenya for the best beta.

Glaciers have receded severely in the past decades so take most maps and route descriptions with a grain of salt. Even the ultra-classic Diamond Couloir is barely formed most seasons.

Getting There 

Mt Kenya has multiple approach trails but only two are well equipped with huts and infrastructure. Get a guidebook from the Mountain Club of Kenya and ask for information updates as approach beta is constantly changing.

Take either Naro Moru or Sirimon approach if you want to stay in huts - there are comfortable and well-equipped huts all the way to the base of the mountain on both sides. Other approaches are more scenic but require self-sufficient camping. Mountain Club of Kenya members can access the very comfortable, cozy, and well-equipped hut at the base of the mountain on the Naro Moru approach.

Porters and guides are recommended. Water is available at the base but not on the climbs.

Don't underestimate the altitude, especially if you are coming from sea level. Give yourself time in Nairobi, at the trailhead (1 night) and at the base (1 night) before climbing.

Climbing Season



Weather station 15.2 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt Kenya

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt Kenya:
Southeast Face of Nelion    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 20 pitches, 1200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt Kenya

Featured Route For Mt Kenya
Rock Climbing Photo: RAPPEL #1 From the highest rap bolt, looking down ...

Southeast Face of Nelion 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Africa : Kenya : Mt Kenya
When it's winter up north, this is a sunny 15 pitch climb that can be done with a small rack, single 60m rope, and rock shoes (big enough for warm socks). Lots of novices have been guided up Nelion, even though it takes thirteen rappels to get down (25m raps). January and February are the driest months. The rains might stop by December for Christmas holidays. Mount Kenya from Point Lenana Southeast Face on left. East Pillar & North Face are best done June through September (warmer). cosmic Wiki-photo by Stefan Leitner (month unknown) Once Nelion is climbed, continuing down to the Gate of Mists and up to Batian is more advanced and committing. There is...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mt Kenya Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Be prepared for a variety of weather. View from MC...
Be prepared for a variety of weather. View from MC...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ridge scrambling towards the West Ridge
Ridge scrambling towards the West Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching Firman's Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Approaching Firman's Tower.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise from the amphitheatre.
Sunrise from the amphitheatre.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Kenya, North Face Standard Route, Grade IV 5...
Mount Kenya, North Face Standard Route, Grade IV 5...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alpenglow
Alpenglow
Rock Climbing Photo: Mackinder Hut (14,200')
Mackinder Hut (14,200')
Rock Climbing Photo: At Camp 1
At Camp 1
Rock Climbing Photo: A huge mountain with pitch after pitch!
A huge mountain with pitch after pitch!
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp 2 bivouac
Camp 2 bivouac
Rock Climbing Photo: The air up there!
The air up there!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pt Lenana (16,355'), Lewis Glacier A new via-ferra...
Pt Lenana (16,355'), Lewis Glacier A new via-ferra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch #1 (of 20+)
Pitch #1 (of 20+)
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit of Mt. Kenya
The summit of Mt. Kenya
Rock Climbing Photo: Midget Peak and Hut Tarn
Midget Peak and Hut Tarn
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Kenya (Batian) from Shipton's Camp in an uns...
Mount Kenya (Batian) from Shipton's Camp in an uns...
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Moses Camp (First camp after Sirimon Gate and ...
BETA PHOTO: Old Moses Camp (First camp after Sirimon Gate and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shipton's Camp
BETA PHOTO: Shipton's Camp
Rock Climbing Photo: Mackinder Hut (14,200')  sleeping room
Mackinder Hut (14,200') sleeping room
Rock Climbing Photo: Glory upon arrival!
Glory upon arrival!
Rock Climbing Photo: Soon to be making camp for the night along the Sir...
Soon to be making camp for the night along the Sir...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the summit of the North Face Standard Rout...
Nearing the summit of the North Face Standard Rout...
Rock Climbing Photo: The glorious summit!!
The glorious summit!!
Rock Climbing Photo: A Hyrax- Africa's marmot equivalent and a frequent...
BETA PHOTO: A Hyrax- Africa's marmot equivalent and a frequent...

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