Mt. Huntington Rock Climbing
The west face of Mt. Huntington from the Upper Tok...
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Mt. Huntington was named after Archer Milton Huntington, former President of the American Geographical Society, sponsor of an early expedition up the Northwest branch of the Ruth Glacier. Unlike McKinley, Foraker, and Hunter, the mountain is not visible from "the plains" (i.e. Talkeetna) and for this reason apparently has no native name (like Denali, Sultana, and Begguya). From the upper Ruth or Tokasitna Glaciers, it appears as an impressive fang of snow or granite.
One defining feature of Mt. Huntington is there is no easy route to or from the summit. In fact, this peak sports arguably the lowest summit percentage of any peak in the Alaska range. Many an expert ice climber has raced with ease up the lower portions of the Nettle-Quirk, only to be humbled by loose, unconsolidated snow on the upper portion of the peak.
Mt. Huntington was first climbed in 1964 by a team led by the legendary French alpinist Lionel Terray, and received its first winter ascent in 2007 by Jed Brown and Colin Haley. I estimate that fewer than 100 people have stood on the summit of Mt. Huntington. When Kelly Cordes and Scott DeCapio completed the first one-day ascent of the mountain in 1998, Cordes commented, "I now understand why so many people stop at, ahem, 'the end of the difficulties.' "
The rock on the west face of Mt. Huntington is generally excellent granite. The north face is primarily steep snow and is quite dangerous (it has only been climbed once). The south and east sides of the peak have mixed snow, ice and rock routes, generally longer than routes on the west face.
Mt. Huntington has graced the covers of many climbing magazines. The mountain was profiled in Alpinist #20 (Summer 2007).
Fly to the Ruth or Tokasitna Glaciers. Most of the routes are better reached from the Tokasitna (upper or lower).
"The Mountain of My Fear" by David Roberts is the classic tale of the first ascent of the Harvard Route. Available from the publisher Mountaineers Books
or from amazon.com
Lionel Terry's account of the first ascent is in the 1965 American Alpine Journal, you can download this for free. Search for "Huntington Lionel Terray" on the AAJ search page
Weather station 38.1 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Huntington
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Huntington
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Huntington:
The Harvard Route
WI3 M6 C1 Steep Snow Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 30 pitches, 4000'
Featured Route For Mt. Huntington
The Harvard Route
WI3 M6 C1 Steep Snow AK
: Denali National Park
: ... : Mt. Huntington
The classic line on Huntington. The first ascent took 3 weeks, the current speed record is around 13 or 14 hours. Time required with largely be dictated by conditions. If the upper ice face isn't a dangerous slab and the lower angle sections allow for fast travel doing the route in a day camp to camp is a reasonable objective, however this is oftentimes not the case. The description here is from late May 2014, a year with incredibly good conditions. This description will make much more sense if ...[more] Browse More Classics in AK
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Feb 6, 2014
David Roberts 1965 Harvard route ascent"The Mountain of my Fear" should be included in the History of this peak!