Mt. Hedgehog - East Ledges Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The old 1/4" bolt is the first you reach upon...
One of the first ledges to be climbed in the forest by the A.M.C in 1928. The ledge faces the contours of Mt Passaconway and has some view further east. The rock is granite like. Left to center facing the cliff at the base are cracks to climb higher up. These are made from very big blocks leaning next to each other. Further up second pitch at trees, above are two separate groove cracks that go a long distance to the top. There used to be anchors at the top to top rope these. The central to right side, I have not done enough to describe it well. The route I did, we encountered short annoying pine to get way from and haphazard blocks to cross over as we diagonally came up the right side and were forced by pine to go left. The work had no merit but this side has several climbs up it now. Some are reached by rappel. I assumed the cracks above the base on the left side are some of the older routes. My friend put up a hammock at the base below the cracked wall starts.
Climbs are listed "Climber's" LEFT to RIGHT, i.e. as a climber would see them from the mid-height tree ledge or the bottom of the cliff.
On a nice summer's day, expect a reasonable amount of hiker traffic over the tops of the slabs as the views are excellent, and the hike is a moderate one. The rock slabs are quite solid and accidental rockfall is not particularly a problem, but climbers below should always take precautions.
On the western side of the Kancamagus Highway, park at the Mt. Hedgehog hiking trail fee parking area. Hike about two miles on the UNH Mt. Hedgehog trail left branch to the summit of the East ledges. This is the main ledge summit with the largest open view. The first ledges you come to is where climbers have rappelled to climb. Between the main ledge and the last ledge, on the trail, before it ascends to the summit, is a forested sloped opening. This is the way to bushwhack down to the base of the main cliff. The last ledge is a short rappel into cliff. The main cliff is a rappel down by two rappels, if the anchors are strong,then trees for rappel to the ground.
Climbing Season For the WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) area.
Weather station 6.0 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Mt. Hedgehog - East Ledges
PB&J 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
: WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)
: Mt. Hedgehog - East Ledges...
This climb is located on the slab above the Half-Way Tree Ledge. ACCESS: Rap with 2 ropes to the double bolt chain anchor on the Half-Way Tree ledge from the Ringwraith top bolt. Move the belay 30-40 ft left of the dlb bolt anchor. Climb the clean friction slab to an old 1/4" bolt, trend right and up through the "headwall". 140-150 ft 5.6 PG-13VARIATION: Climb the razor sharp crack though the headwall left of, and above, the bolt. Listed as a 5.7...mmmmm?...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
BETA PHOTO: This is 25-40 ft Left, and a bit below, the area o...
By Robert Hall
Sep 12, 2013
First - There are several routes on East Ledges, just check WEBSTER or the new North Conway Guide, although these list only climbs on the "upper" cliff.
Second - At the top of the most popular climb (Ringwrath, see photo), on climber's LEFT side of the cliff (right side facing out), there is a new 3/8" SS Bolt, plus an excellent crack to add a back-up piece. At the base is a dbl bolt chain anchor to rap the lower cliff. Both raps require two ropes, even a 70m doesn't make it single.
Third- On the right side (again, left side facing out) of the upper cliff, on a jutting buttress-like block is an old 1/4" bolt. (photo) Directly below this is/are climb(s) not mentioned in either guidebook.
My GENERAL IMPRESSION of East Ledges " A nice place to visit, but you wouldn't want to live there." A bit longer of a hike than to places like Rainbow and Table Mts, and less to do once you get there; but the climbing is slightly steeper and less slab-like.
The TRAIL has had a MAJOR relocation due to wash-out of the old trail, which is still passable but officially closed.