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Mt. Gorgeous

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Born on the 4th of July S 
Camel Straight S 
Cig-arete S 
Climb it Change S 
Delicious S 
Family Jewel S 
Gorgeous S 
K-2 S 
Luscious S 
Marauding Monkeys S 
Pow! Right in the Kisser S 
Scorpion Crack, The S 

Mt. Gorgeous  


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Location: 34.09567, -118.72976 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,639
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: veritus on Jan 3, 2007  with updates from Benjamin Chapman
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Description 

Mt. Gorgeous offers some of the longest routes at Malibu Creek State Park and has become one of the most popular destinations within the canyon. This area has a high concentration moderate climbs for the beginner to intermediate level sport climber. This side of the canyon stays in the shade in the morning and due to the canopy of trees the base of routes receive shade beyond midday. Some of the better routes feature short, powerful cruxes on steep terrain. A rack of 6 - 10 quickdraws, plus anchors, will be sufficient for climbing at Mt. Gorgeous. Be aware that bees/wasps frequently inhabit the pockets on this wall.

Getting There 

Find the 5.5 traverse. Follow the wall up and left into the canyon just after the traverse.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Gorgeous:
Gorgeous   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Family Jewel   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Climb it Change   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Delicious   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Marauding Monkeys   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Scorpion Crack   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Luscious   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 60'   
Pow! Right in the Kisser   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Gorgeous

Featured Route For Mt. Gorgeous
Near the top.

Marauding Monkeys 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Mt. Gorgeous
Sharing the first 4 bolts of Delicious the route heads up easy slab to a big hueco. Then it starts heading right over a bulge to a big hole (it seems that there is possible an owl living here at the moment). Rest here for the crux is next followed by an easy but exposed finish to chains. Route probably gets its 11a rating for the pure enduro fest required to send. The route sees a lot of sun and can be brutal hot during the summer when shaded areas are more comfortable. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Mt. Gorgeous Add Comment
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By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 20, 2007
It's the 5.0 traverse (the first traverse), if that, over the rock pool. The 5.5 traverse is further down the canyon, on the way to The Ghetto.

Morning shade, afternoon sun.
By ShaunG
From: El Paso
Jan 3, 2010
There is a "newer" route on the far right of the wall. It starts climbing a flake then pulling onto a chossy slab. Does anyone know what this goes at and what it is called?
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Mar 26, 2010
According to RC.com it's called Scorpion Crack and goes at .11b. Still looked pretty chossy when I saw it several months ago, and it looked like it should be more in the 5.10 range once it cleans up, but I'll hold off judgment until I get on it.
By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Nov 9, 2010
I've climbed Scorpion Crack - it has some glue/epoxy in places, but nothing came off. I took one fall on the onsight attempt and that was going for the 5th bolt and I just misjudged the distance. I'm inclined to think 5.10d for this route. It was fun to climb. The route immeadiately left of this is probably a 5.10b/c and is worth a go as well.
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