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Mt. Evans

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Alpine Lite Cliffs, The 
Aprons, The 
Black Wall, The 
Chicago Creek Rock 
Lincoln Lake Slabs 
Mount Evans, North Face 
Mt. Evans Bouldering 
Roofer Madness Wall 
Summit Lake Couloirs 
Tan Buttresses, The 
West Buttress 

Mt. Evans  


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Elevation: 14,264'
Location: 39.5886, -105.643 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 628,043
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 17, 2002
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Evans Storm Shot2 - cool effect on it.

Description 

This is a beautiful area of alpine rock with minimal approaches where you can climb stellar, alpine, granite climbs up to 1400 feet and be done in time for lunch or launch into a full adventure with aid climbing at 12000+ feet. Some of the best quality alpine granite in the Front Range lies here. Free routes in the area like Roofer Madness, Lincoln Lake Apron, Jabba, Cheap Date, 2nd Apron Center, 3rd Apron Left, Road Warrior, Good Evans, Cary Granite see little traffic. Bouldering has become quite popular in recent years with 4 star problems like The Dali Sit Down Start, Seurat, and The Ladder. There is room for much more; however, tread lightly here as the terrain tolerates less abuse than lower areas. There may even be lines to do off Guanella Pass ascending to the Sawtooth Traverse. Routes have been put up on Mt. Warren. Aid routes on the overhanging sections of the Black Wall see rare repeats. There are also routes "down valley" from the Black Wall on Mt. Spaulding. Descents can be as demanding as sticking a thumb out as the tourist drive by. Beware of the usual summer lightning storms.

Getting There 

Take I-70 West of Denver to Idaho Springs. Exit 240 up the Mt. Evans Road brings you to Echo Lake. Follow the summit road to Summit Lake about 12,500 feet. Note you may be coerced to pay a toll fee (fee demonstration program) now that has increased to $10 or have a Parks Pass ($80) with the $15 hologram add on to make it a Golden Eagle Pass. They are staffing the toll collection site by 7:45am! Black Wall and Summit aprons are accessed by parking at the Summit Lake parking area.

There may be a way to insist on a pass without use of the Forest Service facilities for a fee-less visit to Mt. Evans. Apparently, you may be able to not use the parking areas like at Summit Lake and avoid the fee.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

181 Total Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',73],['2 Stars',62],['1 Star',27],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',7],['5.8',7],['5.9',12],['5.10',25],['5.11',16],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',27],['V4-5',16],['V6-7',24],['V8-9',15],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',14],['>=V14',2]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Evans:
Timeline   V0+ 4+ R     Boulder, Alpine, 25'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Canvas   V2 5+ R     Boulder, Alpine, 30'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
The Ladder   V2 5+     Boulder, Alpine, 1 pitch, 10'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Dark Crystal   V3 6A     Boulder, Alpine, 16'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
The Dali Stand Start   V6 7A     Boulder, Alpine, 10'   Area A : The Dali Area
Seurat   V8 7B     Boulder, Alpine   Area A : Seurat Area
Bierstadt   V9 7C     Boulder, Alpine, 14'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
The Dali Sit Down Start   V9 7C     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : The Dali Area
No More Greener Grasses   V12 8A+     Boulder, Alpine   Area A : The Dali Area
Big Worm   V14 8B+     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : The Dali Area
2nd Apron Right Side   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 850'   The Aprons
Lincoln Lake Apron   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350'   Lincoln Lake Slabs
Road Warrior   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'   The Black Wall
Double Exposure   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'   Lincoln Lake Slabs
Rainbow Highway   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   The Black Wall
Good Evans   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   The Black Wall
Jabba   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'   Lincoln Lake Slabs
Cary Granite   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 480'   The Black Wall
Sinners On Sunday   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'   The Black Wall
Gettysburg Address   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'   Lincoln Lake Slabs
Browse More Classics in Mt. Evans

Featured Route For Mt. Evans
Nearing the top of the Ladder.

The Ladder V2 5+  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Bierstadt Area
The Ladder, aka Indian Ladder, is an excellent warmup in the Bierstadt Area. This southeast-facing problem is extremely popular, featuring big moves on huge holds. The problem is a bit harder than it looks, but once you figure out which part of each hold to grab, this line will feel much easier. Begin with a sit start in the bottom of the pit, with hands matched on the big sloper. Pop up to the first rail, and so on towards the top. The holds get much more positive after the long reach at ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Mt. Evans Slideshow Add Photo
Goats on the north face of Evans.
Goats on the north face of Evans.
Evans summer storm pic.
Evans summer storm pic.
Damn dirty animals.
Damn dirty animals.
Tundra and clouds near Summit Lake. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Tundra and clouds near Summit Lake. Photo by Blitz...
My contribution toward destroying the wilderness, one pic at a time. <br /> <br />Lower Abyss area.
My contribution toward destroying the wilderness, ...
Clouds 'n' stuff near Summit Lake.
Clouds 'n' stuff near Summit Lake.
Speers on the Sawtooth.
Speers on the Sawtooth.
First pitch of Good Evans.  Photo by Trask Bradbury.
First pitch of Good Evans. Photo by Trask Bradbur...
summit lake
summit lake
It's a long way to Tipperary, <br />It's a long way to go. <br />It's a long way to Tipperary <br />To the sweetest girl I know.
It's a long way to Tipperary, It's a long way to g...
Climbers on Good Evans, Black Wall of Mount Evans.  Photo by Trask Bradbury.
Climbers on Good Evans, Black Wall of Mount Evans....
Tracy enjoying Bierstadt's early bird special, the Granite Scramble.
Tracy enjoying Bierstadt's early bird special, the...
The REAL climbers
The REAL climbers
Tracy on Bierstadt's East Ridge.
Tracy on Bierstadt's East Ridge.
My brother on Emancipation left.
My brother on Emancipation left.
Checkerboard left, don't fall on this one! I fell, and it was almost deadly.
Checkerboard left, don't fall on this one! I fell,...
Mt. Evans. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Mt. Evans. Photo by Blitzo.
Looking down from the summit of Bierstadt onto the Sawtooth.
Looking down from the summit of Bierstadt onto the...
Summit Lake from near the summit. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Summit Lake from near the summit. Photo by Blitzo.
Brian following pitch 3, Chris or Tim leading below him. 2nd apron righhhhhht side! Hint taken?
Brian following pitch 3, Chris or Tim leading belo...
Bouldering on the Dali Block, Chicago Lakes Area.
Bouldering on the Dali Block, Chicago Lakes Area.
Chip's project on the Checkerboard.
Chip's project on the Checkerboard.
Looking back from near the top of the Sawtooth back towards Mt. Bierstadt
Looking back from near the top of the Sawtooth bac...
Bouldering near Lincoln Lake.
Bouldering near Lincoln Lake.

Show All 37 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Mt. Evans Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 4, 2014
By BoulderGuy10
Feb 3, 2003
Mt. Evans has some sweet gneiss routes that span from 50 to hundreds of feet. Go to the Chicago Lakes, and on the trail you will be able to see the cliffs. There is awsome bouldering also in the area. Before you go, be sure to fully research.
By Shawn Shannon
From: Everett, WA
Feb 3, 2003
Generally, what time of year is climbing here accessible. I don't mind wet approaches, or cold temps, just good rock.... any advice??
By Furthermore
Sep 9, 2004
Does anyone know of any routes from the Chicago Lake basin near Mt. Evans or how solid the rock might be??
By Jer Collins
Apr 26, 2005
I've done a few routes from the Chicago Lakes basin. The rock is okay, and sometimes fantastic, but the logistics leave a little to be desired. At the lower lake, look East to Mt. Warren. This is "Windy City Wall" and the center buttress is "Sears Tower".
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 5, 2005
Can anyone give directions to the bouldering at Mt Evans? Much thanks CL
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 30, 2007
From the Rocky Mt News (4/29/7):

State chops down feds' fee for motoring up Mt. Evans.

by Steve Lipsher

The views along the Mount Evans Highway have been described as priceless, but for the past nine years the U.S. Forest Service has managed to nick as much as $10 from virtually every vehicle heading up the highest paved road in the country.

That practice will come to an abrupt end this summer. The Colorado Department of Transportation insists the federal government cannot charge for use of a state highway built and maintained with state tax dollars.

"We didn't know that they were charging everyone," said CDOT spokeswoman Stacey Stegman. "...It's illegal under state law."

The Forest Service began charging travelers at its Echo Lake entrance station in 1997 under the controversial federal fee-demonstration program, which has generated as much as $300,000 annually for upkeep of restrooms, picnic areas and safety patrols on the mountain.

Few visitors have understood that the fees don't apply to those traveling to and from the 14,126-foot summit parking lot who don't use Forest Service picnic areas and restrooms. In fact, a sign posted at the bottom of the winding, 28-mile road reads: "A pass is required for traveling beyond this point."

"They have been misrepresenting things. The average person would think that he had to pay," said Robert Funkhouser, president of the Western Slope No-Fee Coalition, an organization battling the federal government over fees for the use of public lands.

Forest officials dispute that characterization insisting the "pass" could be obtained free of charge. They acknowledge many people didn't discern the difference between acquiring a pass and paying a fee.

Drivers had to ask specifically about the pass or they would be charged the use fees.

Completed in 1927, the summer-only dead-end highway each year attracts an estimated 130,000 visitors.

This past winter, when the state and federal authorities began revisiting their agreement on the operation of Colorado 5, state officials learned every vehicle was being charged.

State officials demanded that the renewed agreement include signs indicating "No charge for travel on State Highway 5" and "USFS fees are not used to maintain State Highway 5."

The Forest Service balked, not wanting to pay for the signs.

"They're thinking "How are we going to get people to pay if they don't have to pay?" Funkhouser said.

The state intends to install signs with or without federal approval, according to e-mails obtained from Jay Kramer, a manager with CDOT.

With the traditional opening about a month away, forest supervisors haven't decided how the road will be managed, but possibilities include abandoning the entrance station and establishing permanent fee-collection stations at facilities maintained by the agency, said John Bustos, spokesman for the Arapaho and Roosevelt national forests.

The Forest Service also hasn't hazarded a guess on how much its budget will be cut if far fewer people pay.

Staff write Steve Lipsher can be reached at 970-51309495 or slipsher@denverpost.com.
By John Simpson
From: Golden, CO
Feb 12, 2008
Does anyone know if there have been any routes put up on the cirque that is below the Sawtooth on the non-Abyss lake side?
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Feb 12, 2008
John, there's a photo of a new route on Evans in one of my photo albums if you click on my name and navigate down to the bottom of the page. I can fill you in on more details if you'd like sometime.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 13, 2008
There are a few, apparently. One of the looks like this:

mountainproject.com/v/tony_bub...
By Mark Kauz
From: Madison, WI
Jul 20, 2009
I would also like beta on the bouldering there. I know there is quite a bit, including Big Worm (V14), and Sunseeker (V13). Would anyone like to get some of the information about the boulders up or DM me about them for my upcoming trip to that area?
By 303scott
Aug 4, 2014
As of last weekend, Denver Mountain Parks has started charging $5 to park at Summit Lake. Don't know if you can avoid the fees by parking out on the road. It doesn't appear that there is any type of annual pass.