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Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Ghost, The T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Shooting Star T 
Silhouette T 
Snave Direct, The T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 14,264'
Location: 39.5886, -105.643 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 49,647
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Nov 30, 1999
This Afternoon

38° | 29°

41° | 30°

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48° | 35°

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BETA PHOTO: The Summit Lake Cirque. Pink - Lazy is Lazy Does....


The Summit Lake bowl offers some fine alpine ice and rock routes topping out at or near 14,000'. Summer T-storms are the biggest danger. Easy access is limited to June-September by the closure of the Mt. Evans highway. It's a long hike up the road or Chicago Lakes basin the rest of the year.

There are some other options up in the Chicago Lakes basin which are accessed from Echo Lake.

Getting There 

Drive up I-70 to Idaho Springs. Take the Mt. Evans highway to the Echo Lake. Take a right at the Echo Lake Lodge, and follow the summit road to Summit Lake. The main bowl just below the summit offers easy ice/snow climbs and has the potential for some mixed routes just below the summit if conditions are right. This is accessed by hiking around the south side of Summit Lake and up the slope into the bowl. The Aprons are west of the Lake - First Apron is northwest, Second is due west, and Third is southwest just right of the bowl. Mt. Spaulding is accessed by dropping down to upper Chicago Lakes basin, north of Summit Lake.

For the Chicago Lake basin options, park at Echo Lake, take a trail off the I-70 side of the lake dropping down into the drainage of Chicago Lakes and go up the valley past the Idaho Springs Reservoir and higher up.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

26 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs:
Telepherique   M1-2 Steep Snow     Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250'   
Crystal Couloir   Steep Snow     Snow, Alpine, 1420'   
North Face Snowfield   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 1420'   
The Road   WI3 M4     Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900'   
Goldfinger Couloir   Steep Snow PG13     Snow, Alpine, 500'   
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River   WI4- M4+     Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 900'   
Sunrise Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II   
Snorkmaiden's Surprise   WI3 M4 Mod. Snow     Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 900'   
The Snave   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1420'   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs

Featured Route For Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
After the descent.

The Bad Finger Couloir Steep Snow  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
This is a super aesthetic couloir looker's right of Goldfinger. This is a well-known snow climb apparently published in Roach's 13er book, I only know it as a descent however. Going down the crux was getting over the cornice and into the line then crossing the 2 foot deep by 2 foot wide runnel numerous times as the couloir is pretty narrow for its entire length. I am guessing it clocks in around 55 degrees.Good timing is imperative on this one as too early going down is dangerous,...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs Slideshow Add Photo
A bit of ice, right of The Road.
A bit of ice, right of The Road.
A bit of ice, across from The Road, in the sun.
A bit of ice, across from The Road, in the sun.
Rock across the valley from The Road.
Rock across the valley from The Road.
Mt. Evans North Wall as 2009-06-29.
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Evans North Wall as 2009-06-29.

Comments on Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Nov 23, 2011
We hiked in to attempt The Road today.

The recent wind storms have done SERIOUS damage to the forest leading in from Echo Lake. The trail is completely covered...almost not followable. Even so, it is a serious effort to get into Chicago Lakes with the current blow down. It's quite impressive though!

By Taylor-B.
From: CO & AK
Jul 9, 2012
On the same buttress you can yo-yo Iration, Mount Evans Mini-Micro Goulotte, and Snorkmaiden's Surprise for a 4 STAR day!
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