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Mt. Emerson

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Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route) T 

Mt. Emerson  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,225'
Location: 37.242, -118.653 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,674
Administrators: Chris Owen, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: fossana on Jun 7, 2010
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Description 

Named in 1873 by John Muir after the poet Ralph Waldo Emerson, Mt. Emerson is a frequently overlooked Sierra peak. RJ Secor (The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes & Trails) describes 5 routes that will satisfy both mixed route aficionados and scramblers alike. Additional information on the N Face is available from Moynier & Fiddler in California's High Sierra.

  • W Ridge (Class 3 from Piute Pass)
  • S Slope (Class 3 from 0.25 miles past Loch Leven)
  • SE Face (5.4 chimney, leaving the Piute Pass trail before Loch Leven)
  • SW Ridge (Class 3 from the couloir between Piute Crags and Emerson)
  • N Face (Class 4 mixed route from the cirque between Peak 1)

Getting There 

For all routes but the N Face:
Passenger cars OK. From central Bishop head W on highway 168 (aka W Line Street) for ~18 miles, passing the S Lake turn-off. Take the right-hand turn onto N Lake Rd. In early the season the road is gated and this will add ~1.7 miles to the trailhead. Unless you are camping at the N Lake campground you will need to park at the large hiker lot and walk the ~0.4 miles to the trailhead. From the campground take the trail toward Piute Pass.

For the N Face:
High clearance required, 4x4 recommended. From central Bishop head W on highway 168 (aka W Line Street) for ~10 miles to Dutch Johns Meadows Road (unmarked) behind an old wilderness kiosk on your right. Head SW the due W along the road, taking a left-hand fork at ~6.2 miles toward the McGee Creek trailhead. Cross country toward the S Fork of McGee Creek. Aim for the cirque between Checkered Demon (Peak 13,112) and Emerson.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.6 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Emerson:
Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route)   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Emerson

Featured Route For Mt. Emerson
Lisa on one of the many gendarmes on the Emerson ridgeline

Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route) 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  CA : High Sierra : Mt. Emerson
Short approach for a fun alpine route on solid rock. Short 5.4 crux. Note that the chimney may be wet in early season.RouteClimb the 5.4 crack. If the chimney is too wet you can climb the face to the right of a second chimney. The chimney is blocked with chockstones at which point you can easily cross and move left onto an easy ramp system that connects with the original route. Continue up class 3-4 slabs eventually leading back into the original crack for a pitch of class 4. Head up a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Mt. Emerson Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up easy talus field to start of climb.  Pitch 1 starts in the left of the two prominent large cracks that are near the top of the talus field.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up easy talus field to start of climb. Pi...
Arrows mark the start of the 5.4 SE Face route, at the left of two prominent chimneys / cracks.
BETA PHOTO: Arrows mark the start of the 5.4 SE Face route, at...

Comments on Mt. Emerson Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mickey Sensenbach
From: San luis obispo CA
Apr 13, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
has anyone ever done this route during this time of year? I am thinking of going to do something this next weekend (April 18-20) and am wandering if there is just too much snow or what? with the winter we had is the only reason why I am actually contemplating high sierra stuff when the Tioga road is not even open :)
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 14, 2014
Keep in mind that some people refer to this as the "waterfall route." As far as I know, the gate is still closed at Aspendell, so there will be some extra mileage as well. Having said that, have fun and don't forget to fill us in on how it went.