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Elevation: 13,831 ft
GPS: 37.1669, -118.6715
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 63,367 total · 301/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Dec 8, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

King of the Evolution Valley - a massive mountain with many long routes. The summit lies detached from the summit plateau, on its southeast side.

Getting There Suggest change

Eastern Approach:
From Sabrina Lake up to Blue Lake, then Dingleberry Lake. Bear right at the sing for Hungry Packer Lake and head up to Midnight Lake - campsites here. For a shorter approach on the day of the climb keep going and camp/bivi at Blue Heaven Lake.

Darwin Canyon can be reached from Blue Heaven Lake by crossing Darwin Col (12,800ft+). Take the obvious chute just left of a pointed peak - can be snow or scree depending upon the season. This provides access to the North Face routes if you don't want to take the northern approach. The summit day will be correspondingly longer.

Northern Approach:
Getting to Lamarck Col with heavy packs is a whole day event. This is a 6 mile hike with 2,600' elevation gain. Obtain wilderness permits at the ranger station in Bishop (get there early, it's a popular trail and only few passes are given on a walk in basis). Take route 168 to North Lake. Car may be parked at an overnight parking lot 0.5 miles from the trailhead. Begin with 2 miles on well-marked Lamarck Lakes Trail until Upper Lamarck Lake. Continue on X-country trail on the south side of the lake (the lake should be on your right as you pass it). The trail starts with the slight descent into a 100 yard rocky groove, climbs up its southern end, winds and goes up and down for a while until climbing steep slopes towards the plateau before Lamarck Cole. Most bivy sites are located on the western slopes of Lamarck Cole but convenient and less populated bivy sites are also located at the lake just below the Lamarck Col on its eastern side.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Darwin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Steep Snow
 11
North Face
Snow, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 59
Evolution Traverse
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Face
 11
Steep Snow Snow, Alpine
Evolution Traverse
 59
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
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