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Mt. Conness

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Friendly Muscle T 
North Ridge T 
South West Face (Harding) Route T 
West Ridge, Mount Conness T 

Mt. Conness  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,590'
Location: 37.9672, -119.3192 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 107,689
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jun 24, 2007
Forecast:
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southwest face from the start of the descent gully...

Description 

Mt. Conness (named after former California senator John Conness) straddles Yosemite National Park and Inyo National Forest, forming the eastern border of the Park. It is the third highest peak in Yosemite National Park (first is Mt. Lyell at 13,114 ft, second is Mt. Dana at 13,061 ft). The Conness Glacier lies to the east.

Getting There 

The most direct way to approach both the North Ridge and West Ridge routes is from the trailhead at Saddlebag Lake (10,060'). A longer approach from Tuolumne Meadows to Young Lakes is also possible. Allow a minimum of 2 hours for the approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Conness:
North Ridge   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Trad, Alpine   
West Ridge, Mount Conness   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   
South West Face (Harding) Route   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1200'   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Conness

Featured Route For Mt. Conness
The Goodrich Memorial at the base of the SW Face

South West Face (Harding) Route 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Mt. Conness
Considering the rock quality in a couple sections, a few insecure moves and the wide crack, that would be a burly solo! I can't decide what is more sick...Peter Croft's onsight solo or Walt Shipley's after doing the route roped and knowing what to expect!!The route is exciting and physical and a must do for the High Sierra tick list. Pitch 1: 3 options...Center option is a groove to a roof (slightly loose) (9+, 115').Pitch 2: Easiest free version is to step down and traverse right on the lower c...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Mt. Conness Slideshow Add Photo
These waterfalls are not only pretty, they also ma...
These waterfalls are not only pretty, they also ma...
Looking back down the Conness Lakes drainage to th...
BETA PHOTO: Looking back down the Conness Lakes drainage to th...
Approach to North Ridge of Mt. Conness, absolutely...
Approach to North Ridge of Mt. Conness, absolutely...
SW Face of Mt. Conness
SW Face of Mt. Conness
Mt. Conness SW Face
Mt. Conness SW Face
One of the streams that cuts through a meadow just...
One of the streams that cuts through a meadow just...
Mt. Conness in warmer days
Mt. Conness in warmer days
The SW Face of Mt. Conness
BETA PHOTO: The SW Face of Mt. Conness
North Ridge, Mt. Conness at day break
BETA PHOTO: North Ridge, Mt. Conness at day break
Conness summit and top of west ridge, from near th...
Conness summit and top of west ridge, from near th...
Mt. Conness from a distance, Tioga Peak in the for...
Mt. Conness from a distance, Tioga Peak in the for...
This view on the approach is why I recommend the l...
This view on the approach is why I recommend the l...
East Ridge of Conness as seen from the summit.
BETA PHOTO: East Ridge of Conness as seen from the summit.
Looking back at the lakes from the start to the No...
Looking back at the lakes from the start to the No...
Conness Glacier
BETA PHOTO: Conness Glacier
From pitch 7 (perhaps) high exposure on West ridge...
BETA PHOTO: From pitch 7 (perhaps) high exposure on West ridge...
Mt. Conness on the approach from Saddlebag Lake.
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Conness on the approach from Saddlebag Lake.
North and East Ridges of Conness seen from North P...
BETA PHOTO: North and East Ridges of Conness seen from North P...
Conness Lakes and the start of the North Ridge, as...
Conness Lakes and the start of the North Ridge, as...
From about half way up the stellar ridge.
From about half way up the stellar ridge.
Taking in the views of Mt. Conness from the Connes...
Taking in the views of Mt. Conness from the Connes...
The notch at upper right can be seen from the flat...
BETA PHOTO: The notch at upper right can be seen from the flat...
North West face of Coness
North West face of Coness
First view of the Conness summit on the right once...
BETA PHOTO: First view of the Conness summit on the right once...

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Comments on Mt. Conness Add Comment
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By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 21, 2009
Approach beta from Sawmill Campground at Saddlebag Lake can be found here:
dreaminvertical.com/?p=1793
By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Sep 6, 2011
I found Stefurak's beta useful, however, we found that we had to hike at least 5-10 mins downhill, south of the plateau before we found the correct descent gully to the base of the SW face/ W ridge. The cairn marking the trail down the gully was not visible until we were directly on top of it.
By Murf
Sep 6, 2011
Laine has a great point. Luke's beta is spot on until the end. I don't believe there is any reason to go all the way to the cemented Geo Survey windbreaks. The correct descent is just to the right of the left snowbank in this photo.



On the sandy plateau, continue towards Conness dropping slightly. There are a couple of bivy windbreaks well lower than the high shoulder with the Geo Survey ones. From these, drop into the sandy wash and then back up to the area between the two snowbanks in the photo above tending toward the left notches.
By kenr
Aug 8, 2013
Approach details also in the Comments on the MP West Ridge page.

GPX file containing key latitude/longitude waypoints and some useful tracks for approach is linked from this page .
By Nick_M
Aug 21, 2014
My recommendation for people who don't hate hiking and love the mountains beyond just the climbing route to be done. Appreciation for views, route finding, and off-trail sub-alpine and alpine travel required.

I'm much more fond of approaching Conness from the South (Lembert Dome). The standard Saddlebag approach basically summits the mountain, and then descends down to you're route. This felt a bit silly.

Approaching from Lembert Dome is longer distance, but much less elevation. 5-ish miles on trail lead you to the incredibly beautiful Young Lake, from which you can drool, froth, and do whatever else you do when confronted with the head-on view of Conness' South Face, framed by a sub-alpine lake. This perspective on the approach makes this method, to me, 100x more enjoyable than Saddlebag. From here, head cross-country through the forest, aiming at Conness. Travel is fairly easy as far as off-trail goes, as vegetation is sparse in those forests. A map and compass bearing helps, but it's kinda hard to miss that mountain. Walk straight up to the South Face or West Ridge, and climb it! Descending Saddlebag to a stashed car could make for a really cool, aesthetic day of travel in the mountains.
Get psyched!
Get psyched!