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Mt. Conness

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Friendly Muscle 
North Ridge 
South West Face (Harding) Route 
West Ridge, Mount Conness 

Mt. Conness 


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Elevation: 12,590'
Location: 37.9672, -119.3192 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 81,283
Administrators: M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jun 24, 2007
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southwest face from the start of the descent gully...

Description 

Mt. Conness (named after former California senator John Conness) straddles Yosemite National Park and Inyo National Forest, forming the eastern border of the Park. It is the third highest peak in Yosemite National Park (first is Mt. Lyell at 13,114 ft, second is Mt. Dana at 13,061 ft). The Conness Glacier lies to the east.


Getting There 

The most direct way to approach both the North Ridge and West Ridge routes is from the trailhead at Saddlebag Lake (10,060'). A longer approach from Tuolumne Meadows to Young Lakes is also possible. Allow a minimum of 2 hours for the approach.


4 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Conness:
North Ridge   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c     Trad, Alpine   
West Ridge, Mount Conness   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   
South West Face (Harding) Route   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1200'   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Conness

Featured Route For Mt. Conness
On the West Ridge of Mt. Conness

West Ridge, Mount Conness 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Mt. Conness
A fun back country route. Just stay on the ridge as much as possible for the best climbing on the best granite. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Mt. Conness
Photos of Mt. Conness Slideshow Add Photo
Approach to North Ridge of Mt. Conness, absolutely wonderful
Approach to North Ridge of Mt. Conness, absolutely...
Looking back down the Conness Lakes drainage to the east.
BETA PHOTO: Looking back down the Conness Lakes drainage to th...
These waterfalls are not only pretty, they also mark the spot where you should diverge off of the main trail and go up the hill to the right in order to reach the east ridge and summit plateau. July 2010
These waterfalls are not only pretty, they also ma...
SW Face of Mt. Conness
SW Face of Mt. Conness
Conness Glacier
BETA PHOTO: Conness Glacier
One of the streams that cuts through a meadow just below a glacier on Mt. Conness. The stream becomes a waterfall a hundred yards further down. Photo by Brian Aitken taken 07/24/2012.
One of the streams that cuts through a meadow just...
Mt. Conness in warmer days
Mt. Conness in warmer days
Mt. Conness from the approach to the North Ridge. Photo by Brian Aitken taken 07/24/2012.
Mt. Conness from the approach to the North Ridge. ...
North Ridge, Mt. Conness at day break
BETA PHOTO: North Ridge, Mt. Conness at day break
Mt. Conness SW Face
Mt. Conness SW Face
Mt. Conness from a distance, Tioga Peak in the foreground. <br /> <br />Picture taken from Glacier Canyon
Mt. Conness from a distance, Tioga Peak in the for...
First view of the Conness summit on the right once topping out past the notch onto the sandy plateau. 26 Aug 2011.
BETA PHOTO: First view of the Conness summit on the right once...
Conness summit and top of west ridge, from near the descent notch
Conness summit and top of west ridge, from near th...
Looking back at the lakes from the start to the North Ridge. Photo by Brian Aitken taken 07/24/2012.
Looking back at the lakes from the start to the No...
East Ridge of Conness as seen from the summit.
BETA PHOTO: East Ridge of Conness as seen from the summit.
From pitch 7 (perhaps) high exposure on West ridge Mt Conness
BETA PHOTO: From pitch 7 (perhaps) high exposure on West ridge...
Mt. Conness on the approach from Saddlebag Lake.
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Conness on the approach from Saddlebag Lake.
North and East Ridges of Conness seen from North Peak.
BETA PHOTO: North and East Ridges of Conness seen from North P...
The SW Face of Mt. Conness
BETA PHOTO: The SW Face of Mt. Conness
From about half way up the stellar ridge.
From about half way up the stellar ridge.
The notch at upper right can be seen from the flat meadow area above the waterfall. Topping out over that notch would land you on the summit sandy plateau with your first view of the actual Conness summit.  26 Aug 2011.
BETA PHOTO: The notch at upper right can be seen from the flat...
Conness Lakes and the start of the North Ridge, as viewed from the upper part of the East Ridge.
Conness Lakes and the start of the North Ridge, as...
Comments on Mt. Conness Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Sep 21, 2009

Approach beta from Sawmill Campground at Saddlebag Lake can be found here:
www.dreaminvertical.com/?p=1793

By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Sep 6, 2011

I found Stefurak's beta useful, however, we found that we had to hike at least 5-10 mins downhill, south of the plateau before we found the correct descent gully to the base of the SW face/ W ridge. The cairn marking the trail down the gully was not visible until we were directly on top of it.

By Murf
Sep 6, 2011

Laine has a great point. Luke's beta is spot on until the end. I don't believe there is any reason to go all the way to the cemented Geo Survey windbreaks. The correct descent is just to the right of the left snowbank in this photo.



On the sandy plateau, continue towards Conness dropping slightly. There are a couple of bivy windbreaks well lower than the high shoulder with the Geo Survey ones. From these, drop into the sandy wash and then back up to the area between the two snowbanks in the photo above tending toward the left notches.

By kenr
Aug 8, 2013

Approach details also in the Comments on the MP West Ridge page.

GPX file containing key latitude/longitude waypoints and some useful tracks for approach is linked from this page .