This is one of the premier/most controversial climbing destinations in the US, if hard limestone routes are what you're seeking. The beautiful surroundings, overhanging caves, and cooler temperatures make Mt. Charleston a welcomed escape from the desert heat of Las Vegas during the summer months. Mt. Charleston is most well-known for having chipped routes and its hard pocketed testpieces such as Jason Campbell's Soul Train: 5.14a, Chris Sharma's Hasta La Vista: 5.14b/c, and Dan McQuade's Infectious Groove: 5.13b. Other climbers of note who contributed to the excellent climbing up on the mountaintop include Tony Yaniro, Randy Marsh, Leo Henson, Terry Parish, Rob Mulligan, Joe Brooks, Francois LeGrand, Doug Englekirk, etc. etc. etc. Mt. Charleston also sports numerous other quality lines ranging from 5.10 and up, so if you are in Vegas and looking to avoid the scorching sun and overcrowding of Red Rocks, head 45 minutes north to this pine tree oasis.
Mt. Charleston is located forty minutes north of Las Vegas in the Toiyabe National Forest. Take Hwy 95 north out of Vegas. Shortly after the houses stop, you will see a sign directing you to turn left for Kyle Canyon Rd. (157). Head up this road for several miles until you reach the area you're looking for. Most of the climbing is past the turnoff for Lee Canyon via the Deer Creek Hwy (158).
132 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Charleston:
The Imaginator 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 3 pitches, 375' The Imagination Wall : Central Slab Area
The Cathedral Route 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 3 pitches, 300' Cathedral Rock : The Cathedral Route Wall
Featured Route For Mt. Charleston
The Cathedral Route 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a NV : Mt. Charleston : ... : The Cathedral Route Wall
The crux of this route is encountered on the first pitch, and consists of a tricky sequence of moves as you move onto and off of the arete at the bottom. This is followed by a series of small edge crimps on lower angled black rock. There is another crux right below the first set of anchors.Pitch 1: 8 bolts to LO (5.11c)- Follow the bolts through an initial loose section to an arete that leads to lower angled rock full of thin black ledges. Climb this slab to a corner with no more bolts in sight ...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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