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Mt. Charleston
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Blue Sky Bluff 
Cathedral Rock 
Hood, The 
Ice House, The 
Imagination Wall, The 
Mary Jane Cliff 
Mount Charleston Ice 
Mount Charleston Ski Randonnee 
Pirate's Cove 
Robber's Roost 
Sesame Street 
Starter Crag 
Walla Walla Wash 
Yellow Pine 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

3 Mile Smile
An excellent 3 mile descent that will keep you grinning. Near Las Vegas, NV
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Inner Loop
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Bears Best
This trail has great flowing, winding and rocky singletrack. Near Las Vegas, NV
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mt. Charleston 


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Elevation: 8,000'
Lat, Long: 36.2657, -115.5997 Map
Page Views: 139,898. Good page? (9 likes)   
Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on Aug 15, 2006

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John Heinman on Animal Attack: 5.13b, the Compton ...

Description 

This is one of the premier/most controversial climbing destinations in the US, if hard limestone routes are what you're seeking. The beautiful surroundings, overhanging caves, and cooler temperatures make Mt. Charleston a welcomed escape from the desert heat of Las Vegas during the summer months. Mt. Charleston is most well-known for having chipped routes and its hard pocketed testpieces such as Jason Campbell's Soul Train: 5.14a, Chris Sharma's Hasta La Vista: 5.14b/c, and Dan McQuade's Infectious Groove: 5.13b. Other climbers of note who contributed to the excellent climbing up on the mountaintop include Tony Yaniro, Randy Marsh, Leo Henson, Terry Parish, Rob Mulligan, Joe Brooks, Francois LeGrand, Doug Englekirk, etc. etc. etc. Mt. Charleston also sports numerous other quality lines ranging from 5.10 and up, so if you are in Vegas and looking to avoid the scorching sun and overcrowding of Red Rocks, head 45 minutes north to this pine tree oasis.

Note: The majority of the information I've posted on Mt. Charleston came directly from the guidebook Islands In The Sky, and proper credit should be given to its authors; Dan McQuade, Randy Leavitt, and Mick Ryan.


Getting There 

Mt. Charleston is located forty minutes north of Las Vegas in the Toiyabe National Forest. Take Hwy 95 north out of Vegas. Shortly after the houses stop, you will see a sign directing you to turn left for Kyle Canyon Rd. (157). Head up this road for several miles until you reach the area you're looking for. Most of the climbing is past the turnoff for Lee Canyon via the Deer Creek Hwy (158).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Charleston:
Vegas Hose Monster   WI5     Ice, 3 pitches, 400 feet   Mount Charleston Ice
Little Falls   WI2+     Ice, 4 pitches   Mount Charleston Ice
Feel No Evil   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Hood : The Souls Slab
Pine In The Ass   5.10b     Sport, 60 feet   Mary Jane Cliff
Yellow Pine   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Yellow Pine
1057   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Yellow Pine
Unknown   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Yellow Pine
unknown 2   5.11-     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Yellow Pine
Mary Jane   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Mary Jane Cliff
The Great Train Robbery   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch   Robber's Roost
Los Banditos   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch   Robber's Roost
The Imaginator   5.11c     Sport, 3 pitches, 375 feet   The Imagination Wall : Central Slab Area
Heating Up the Hood   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Hood : Pine Tree Ledge
Across the Universe   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   The Hood : The Corrosion Cave
The Cathedral Route   5.11c     Sport, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Cathedral Rock
Conny Loves Dadddy   5.12a     Sport, 70 feet   Robber's Roost
Highway Man   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch   Robber's Roost
Straight Outta Compton   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   The Hood : The Compton Cave
Ghetto Boyz   5.13c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   The Hood : The Infectious Cave / Slab
Gutbuster 2000   5.14c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   The Hood : The Souls Cave
Browse More Classics in Mt. Charleston


Featured Route For Mt. Charleston
Hirch climbs steep moves through the cave.

Straight Outta Compton 5.12d  NV : Mt. Charleston : ... : The Compton Cave
A steep jug haul marathon... CLASSIC!...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV


Photos of Mt. Charleston Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Charleston <br /> <br />Looking down onto Highway 158; accessed via Highway 157 to Kyle Canyon, or Highway 156 to Lee Canyon. <br /> <br />Hilltop campground, the North Loop trailhead, Deer Creek (free picnic area), and a popular climbing crag  <br />Robber's Roost are all off of Highway 158. <br />

Mt. Charleston

Looking down onto Highway 158@SEMI...


Distant Mt.Charleston framed by a joshua tree in bloom. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Distant Mt.Charleston framed by a joshua tree in b...

The Hydra, 5.11+, at the Universal Wall

BETA PHOTO: The Hydra, 5.11+, at the Universal Wall

Start of the crux sequence, pitch 1 of The Hydra.  Climber:  Tom Beck

Start of the crux sequence, pitch 1 of The Hydra. ...

The Count Becomes Difficult 5.8.  Climber:  Marc Rosenthal

The Count Becomes Difficult 5.8. Climber: Marc R...

Sweet step across to the rib on The Count Becomes Difficult.

Sweet step across to the rib on The Count Becomes ...

the summit

the summit

Steepness at Charleston

Steepness at Charleston

Whip

Whip

Good times clipping bolts @ Charleston

Good times clipping bolts @ Charleston

Mt. Charleston via South Fork in mid November.

Mt. Charleston via South Fork in mid November.


Comments on Mt. Charleston Add Comment
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By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Oct 3, 2006

Campgrounds of Mt. Charleston.

The 'Hilltop' is the most popular campground, and has warm showers (coin operated). Make your reservations way ahead of time, if planning on being there in the summer/warmer months.

By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Jun 22, 2009

There are not that many routes listed here on MP but there are a lot of routes up there. Grab a guide book and enjoy the super hard and sharp limestone!

By bosworth
Oct 5, 2010

Keep an eye on the fixed link draws in the area, especially at crux's. After taking a couple of good sized falls on the crux of The Great Train Robbery, (the bolt below the ledge), I managed to core shot my rope on a carabiner that had been worn down enough to create an edge. I have replaced this biner, but that is not to say that it won't happen again or that there aren't more biners such as this one.

I would like to stress the importance of keeping your rope on a rope bag during belays as to keep dirt and debris from wearing down the surface of draws. It was kind enough of our fellow craggers to put these permanent fixtures up, but it is our job to keep them safe.

By Joe Wysznski
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 5, 2012

Please DO NOT leave trash behind. Lets keep the mountain clean! I know a lot of it might be from people hiking but I have been finding trash left at all the climbing areas, this is unacceptable! Please pick up after yourself