John Heinman on Animal Attack: 5.13b, the Compton ...
This is one of the premier/most controversial climbing destinations in the US, if hard limestone routes are what you're seeking. The beautiful surroundings, overhanging caves, and cooler temperatures make Mt. Charleston a welcomed escape from the desert heat of Las Vegas during the summer months. Mt. Charleston is most well-known for having chipped routes and its hard pocketed testpieces such as Jason Campbell's Soul Train: 5.14a, Chris Sharma's Hasta La Vista: 5.14b/c, and Dan McQuade's Infectious Groove: 5.13b. Other climbers of note who contributed to the excellent climbing up on the mountaintop include Tony Yaniro, Randy Marsh, Leo Henson, Terry Parish, Rob Mulligan, Joe Brooks, Francois LeGrand, Doug Englekirk, etc. etc. etc. Mt. Charleston also sports numerous other quality lines ranging from 5.10 and up, so if you are in Vegas and looking to avoid the scorching sun and overcrowding of Red Rocks, head 45 minutes north to this pine tree oasis.
Note: The majority of the information I've posted on Mt. Charleston came directly from the guidebook Islands In The Sky, and proper credit should be given to its authors; Dan McQuade, Randy Leavitt, and Mick Ryan.
Mt. Charleston is located forty minutes north of Las Vegas in the Toiyabe National Forest. Take Hwy 95 north out of Vegas. Shortly after the houses stop, you will see a sign directing you to turn left for Kyle Canyon Rd. (157). Head up this road for several miles until you reach the area you're looking for. Most of the climbing is past the turnoff for Lee Canyon via the Deer Creek Hwy (158).
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
133 Total Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',51],['2 Stars',50],['1 Star',20],['Bomb',1]
Browse More Classics in Mt. Charleston
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Charleston:
Featured Route For Mt. Charleston
Mary Jane 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c NV
: Mt. Charleston
: Mary Jane Cliff
This is the best route at this crag. FUN climbing below the roof/bulge up the corner lined with pockets, then a sequential sequence leads you up the small crimps at the bulge to the anchors. This top section seems to spoil a lot of onsight attempts......[more] Browse More Classics in NV
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Mt. Charleston via South Fork in mid November.
BETA PHOTO: The Hydra, 5.11+, at the Universal Wall
Start of the crux sequence, pitch 1 of The Hydra. ...
Distant Mt.Charleston framed by a joshua tree in b...
Mt. Charleston Looking down onto Highway 158; acc...
Sweet step across to the rib on The Count Becomes ...
Good times clipping bolts @ Charleston
The Count Becomes Difficult 5.8. Climber: Marc R...
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
Oct 3, 2006
Campgrounds of Mt. Charleston.
The 'Hilltop' is the most popular campground, and has warm showers (coin operated). Make your reservations way ahead of time, if planning on being there in the summer/warmer months.
By Mike Dudley
Jun 22, 2009
There are not that many routes listed here on MP but there are a lot of routes up there. Grab a guide book and enjoy the super hard and sharp limestone!
Oct 5, 2010
Keep an eye on the fixed link draws in the area, especially at crux's. After taking a couple of good sized falls on the crux of The Great Train Robbery, (the bolt below the ledge), I managed to core shot my rope on a carabiner that had been worn down enough to create an edge. I have replaced this biner, but that is not to say that it won't happen again or that there aren't more biners such as this one.
I would like to stress the importance of keeping your rope on a rope bag during belays as to keep dirt and debris from wearing down the surface of draws. It was kind enough of our fellow craggers to put these permanent fixtures up, but it is our job to keep them safe.
By Joe Wysznski
Aug 5, 2012
Please DO NOT leave trash behind. Lets keep the mountain clean! I know a lot of it might be from people hiking but I have been finding trash left at all the climbing areas, this is unacceptable! Please pick up after yourself