|Type:||, 4000', Grade III|
|Original:||Steep Snow X [details]|
|Submitted By:||Taylor-B. on Sep 16, 2010|
|Comments on Mt. Byron, West Ridge||Add Comment|
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By David Hertel
From: Haines, Alaska
Mar 23, 2014
Went up the West Ridge today. We got about 1/3 up the ridge from the col before hitting hard rime and blue ice. We only had 1 screw and our pickets wouldn't go up high. I tried chopping a slot for deadmen, but it was all blue ice 1 1/2 inches under the surface rime. I recommend 5 long screws on a running belay and 3 pickets for gear. Also, my straight axe was very difficult to place since there was no proper snow to plunge in. At the moment, a set of technical tools would be nice on this route.
Present conditions: AI 2+ Grade III
PS: Be prepared to leave some slings or potentially be doing a lot of shitty down climbing with high consequence.