Mt. Byron, West Ridge
Steep Snow X
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|Type: ||Snow, 4000', Grade III|
|Submitted By: ||Taylor-B. on Sep 16, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Byron. The west ridge is the right skyline.
Mt. Byron is one of the most beautiful roadside peaks in Alaska. The crux is hitting the weather and route conditions just right. Portage valley is one of the wettest, snowiest places in the world. Park at the Byron Glacier TH. Mt. Byron is the prominent peak at the head of the valley. Take care on the approach, this area is a huge terrain trap for avi's. If you survive the terrain trap, gain a small hanging glacier on the west side of the valley and then boot pack/scramble up to the col of the west ridge. The West ridge is a very corniced knife ridge, it is wise to rope up for the ridge (people have died on this ridge). Send it to the summit. For the descent either go back down the ridge or ski down the steep 50 degree headwall for a classic skimountaineering route, there is a bergshrund on the head wall.
Glacier travel kit and pickets.
Fun ridge climbing.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the col. You can see what a terr...
Skiing the headwall
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