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Mt. Bancroft

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Bankrupt T 
East Ridge Direct T 

Mt. Bancroft  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,250'
Location: 39.8375, -105.7002 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,266
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: J. Fox on Feb 2, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Bancroft from the East showing the start (on left)...

Description 

Mt. Bancroft is a low 13er located just south of James Peak and NW of the town of Alice, CO.

There are several routes from easy class-2, the classic 4th class East Ridge, and some harder low to mid 5th class variations on the East Ridge. The north face of the East Ridge holds several steep couloirs that beg to be explored and would make fine spring alpine routes when combined with a finish of the East Ridge route.

The Southeast ridge is mainly used as the descent route and is the class-2 ascent route I mentioned above.

Getting There 

Exit 240 from I-70, just a few miles west of Idaho Springs. Drive ~10 miles to the town of Alice, the hang a left on Alice Rd. (dirt) for ~1.5 miles. Park in a tiny pullout on the right by a trailhead sign (see the photo).

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.3 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Bancroft:
East Ridge Direct   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 Steep Snow R     Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 4 pitches, 3000'   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Bancroft

Featured Route For Mt. Bancroft
The green line shows a direct start, but to me it seemed rather short and not worth bothering with ropes etc. especially since there's such a nice snow climb up around it. <br /> <br />We climbed the snow (1st red line) to the base of the wall, then our P1 (blue line), the P2 (2nd red line). <br /> <br />P1 was a full 60m. <br />P2 was ~45m. <br /> <br />Many variations exist.

East Ridge Direct 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 Steep Snow R  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Mt. Bancroft
The direct E. Ridge of Mt. Bancroft is accessed from just above Loch Lomond. The route is a sustained class 4 ridge scramble with a 60' rappel required in the middle, and several places of low 5th class climbing, especially out of the notch you rap into.There is a harder variation to this route which goes straight up the headwall of the NE buttress. In winter, the climbing on this variation is rather difficult, though low 5th class, due to the snow/ice on all the ledges and the lack of suitabl...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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