This is an area of West Gloucester comparable to Redrocks minus the glory of the main wall. There is a plethora of boulders (Dike's Pond area) throughout the wood here and about half a dozen awesome crags which offer both slab and crack climbing.
Follow New Way Lane to the green gate. Make sure you do not park blocking the gate, probably a two car maximum here. Follow the trail until the first fork, take a right. At the next intersection, take a left. At the third intersection, you will see a sign for the summit, take that right. You will shortly see crags starting on your right.
Climbing Season For the Cape Ann area.
Weather station 5.9 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Mt. Ann
Young Adult Friction V1 5 MA
: Cape Ann
: ... : Crotch Slab
This heads up to the obvious feature in the middle of the slab just right of the steep, high part at the left end of the slab. Smear up on gentle scoops and bulges including the large, shallow dish. There are no hand holds to be found. It is a really great, pure fiction climb up an ultra clean slab. ...[more] Browse More Classics in MA
Sep 19, 2013
BE ADVISED: As of 9/13 there is an emergency police ban on parking on New Way Lane, so alternate access must be found for both Mt. Ann and Dyke's Pond.
The best way I have found seems to be to park in the large dirt lot just south of 128 (near Redrock parking lot), cross the on-ramp, and head down into the woods, but there is a large swamp down there you want to avoid. If you head past the signs and then head down in a SW direction, you will cross a small stream and then after 200 hundred feet or so reach a good path that runs from behind a nearby house to Dyke's Pond and the old path to Mt. Ann. This minimizes sogginess.