This is an area of West Gloucester comparable to Redrocks minus the glory of the main wall. There is a plethora of boulders (Dike's Pond area) throughout the wood here and about half a dozen awesome crags which offer both slab and crack climbing.
Follow New Way Lane to the green gate. Make sure you do not park blocking the gate, probably a two car maximum here. Follow the trail until the first fork, take a right. At the next intersection, take a left. At the third intersection, you will see a sign for the summit, take that right. You will shortly see crags starting on your right.
Climbing Season For the Cape Ann area.
Weather station 5.9 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Mt. Ann
Super Clap V3 6A MA
: Cape Ann
: ... : STD Slab
This is a really cool slab problem on perfect rock. Start on the main face, and get thin feet down low and whatever works for hands. Once established on main face, work over to arete where you will encounter a hold or two. Continue up using a combination of the arete for hands and the main face for feet until you can reach the only decent hold at the top. This is a perfect combination of arete and slab problem that could only be improved by being longer. ...[more] Browse More Classics in MA
Sep 19, 2013
BE ADVISED: As of 9/13 there is an emergency police ban on parking on New Way Lane, so alternate access must be found for both Mt. Ann and Dyke's Pond.
The best way I have found seems to be to park in the large dirt lot just south of 128 (near Redrock parking lot), cross the on-ramp, and head down into the woods, but there is a large swamp down there you want to avoid. If you head past the signs and then head down in a SW direction, you will cross a small stream and then after 200 hundred feet or so reach a good path that runs from behind a nearby house to Dyke's Pond and the old path to Mt. Ann. This minimizes sogginess.