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 ADVANCED
Upper Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bean Pole T,TR 
Bishop T,TR 
Bloody Fingers TR 
Chamonix TR 
Chimney, The T,TR 
Climber's Corner T 
Desperate Depression T,TR 
Diagonal T 
Double Chin T 
Double Jam T 
Fantastic Face TR 
Far Out Jam T,TR 
Far Out Jam Right T,TR 
High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes) TR 
Horn, The T 
Kiddie's Korner T,TR 
Loose Flake Polka TR 
Max Factor T 
Ms. Pac Man T 
No Answer T,TR 
Obscene Phone Call T 
PB & J T,TR 
Pee Pee The Sailor TR 
Roof, The T 
Short Stuff T,TR 
Start, The T 
Tramp, The T,TR 
Yellow Zonkers T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Ms. Pac Man 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Apr 28, 2008

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Description 

Take a chimney climb, add in a finger sized crack for gear, an optional bouldery start as well as a face climb finish, and you've got a fun route with a great view that hasn't gotten much love in a lot of years. Near the left end of the Upper Cliff before reaching the trail to the top, a detached block creates a left facing chimney. A couple of boulder ledges abutt the trail directly below. Scramble up the ledges for the direct bouldery start (or bypass by walking around on the right). Pull into the chimney with the aid of the finger crack and the arete of the block. Plug and play up the chimney and crack, exit onto the top of the block and step across to the ledge. If you stop here, you miss the great view from the top.

To continue, albeit runout, climb straight up the low angle, flake covered face to a cluster of trees. Rig an anchor and enjoy the view of South and Middle Mountains, Round Pond, and North Marsh. Belay here and walk off left.

Location 

Left end of Upper Cliff, 20' left of the Roof. Locate the chimney created by a large detached block, start on the trail next to boulder ledge. Best to walk off left.

Protection 

Standard rack up to #1 camalot. Sling trees at top for anchor.


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