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The Crack House
Routes Sorted
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Gargoyle Gardens T 
It's Hard to Say No T 
Jug-A-Lug S 
Mountain Mahogany T 
No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus) T 

No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Jim Ghiselli, and Kevin Vowles: June, 1999
Page Views: 629
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 26, 2010

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Description 

A fun jaunt up very featured granite, with good protection through all but the first fifteen feet or so.

Start on a flat-ish spot below the large boulder on the slope at the base of the wall, and climb up through some hard-or-impossible-to-protect terrain. Eventually you'll read a spot where a hand-size cam will fit (eg., #2 C4). From here go straight up through to a crack and from there to a small roof.

Head up the crack on the right side of the roof to a small overhang between two blocks, the left-most of which looks rounded and vaguely puffy. Surmount the steepness and head up the crack to the chain anchors.

Location 

Located in approximately the middle of Crack House, starts below the large boulder on the slope, and ascends through the crack on the right side of the left-most “pillow-looking” block about three-fourths of the way up the wall.

Protection 

Cams #.5 to #4 C4 or equivalent, small through large nuts. Chain anchors.


Photos of No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus) Slideshow Add Photo
This shot shows the bottom of the route. The botto...
This shot shows the bottom of the route. The botto...
Although an egregious example of the butt shot, th...
Although an egregious example of the butt shot, th...

Comments on No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus) Add Comment
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By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jun 1, 2014

The correct name for this route is "No is a Four Letter Word" and was first done in June, 1999 by Rick Thompson, Jim Ghiselli & Kevin Vowles. We rated it 5.8 ***