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Mrs. Socrates 
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Mrs. Socrates 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Bruce Rogers, and Marvin Webb, 1985
Page Views: 2,594
Submitted By: andjoely on Jan 18, 2008
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Description 

Short Crux followed by awesome, easier crack climbing.

Well protected. A good climb for those breaking into the 5.12 grade.


Protection 

nothing larger than #2 camalot. larger nuts helpful in middle of route but are not necessary.



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By 426
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

(Warning: spoiler)...Take a wide variety of gear for the arm blowing crack at the top and beware of a solid crimpy face move at about 3/4's height (might be another way to do it...?) Weird bouldery crux moves at the bottom, many ways to sequence, so look around!

They fixed the anchors recently. Thanks!

By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 9, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I don't remember any crimping before the crack ends at the ledge most of the way up. I do remember a spot where the feet were bad and the locks thin, maybe that's the crimp spot. Fantastic route.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 30, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

this is further beta spew, but I believe I bypassed the crimping section (just below the ledge), by moving left on some slopers to a really good jug. It looked like I missed a few good finger locks, but it was nice to get the respite after the crux an the pumpy crack. Really cool route.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 2, 2011

Great route. I agree that this line is perfect for those breaking into the grade. And for crimping: I crimped a lot on the upper face crux. That upper crux wasn't hard in comparison to the bottom crux (maybe 10d), but it's hard enough that it keeps your attention.

By Dustin Stephens
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Freaking spectacular... one of the best anywhere