Mrs. Socrates 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Rob Robinson, Bruce Rogers, and Marvin Webb, 1985 |
| Submitted By: | andjoely on Jan 18, 2008 |
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Description Short Crux followed by awesome, easier crack climbing. Well protected. A good climb for those breaking into the 5.12 grade.
Protection nothing larger than #2 camalot. larger nuts helpful in middle of route but are not necessary.
| Comments on Mrs. Socrates |
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By 426 Apr 13, 2008 rating: 5.12a
| (Warning: spoiler)...Take a wide variety of gear for the arm blowing crack at the top and beware of a solid crimpy face move at about 3/4's height (might be another way to do it...?) Weird bouldery crux moves at the bottom, many ways to sequence, so look around! They fixed the anchors recently. Thanks! |
By yevquest From: Southeast,US Feb 9, 2009 rating: 5.12a
| I don't remember any crimping before the crack ends at the ledge most of the way up. I do remember a spot where the feet were bad and the locks thin, maybe that's the crimp spot. Fantastic route. |
By camhead From: The Old Northwest Dec 30, 2009 rating: 5.12-
| this is further beta spew, but I believe I bypassed the crimping section (just below the ledge), by moving left on some slopers to a really good jug. It looked like I missed a few good finger locks, but it was nice to get the respite after the crux an the pumpy crack. Really cool route. |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jan 2, 2011
| Great route. I agree that this line is perfect for those breaking into the grade. And for crimping: I crimped a lot on the upper face crux. That upper crux wasn't hard in comparison to the bottom crux (maybe 10d), but it's hard enough that it keeps your attention. |
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