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Mrs. Hen Places a Peck 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chip Chace and Pat Adams, March 1990
Page Views: 2,637
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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Myke Komarnitsky climbing the upper portion of the...

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Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is about 40 yards west of Deck Chairs on the Titanic. Look for the strange and obvious bird hole in the middle of a clean face. Start up the left edge of said clean face, then follow the bolts up and to the right.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. TR access is only if someone climbs it, or it you set up an anchor up top and rappel off.

There is a 2 bolt anchor ~10 feet higher with Mussy hooks.



Photos of Mrs. Hen Places a Peck Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Quinn Stevens rests before working his way up the difficult face.
Quinn Stevens rests before working his way up the ...
Quinn again, working for the balance for the reach up to the ledge.
Quinn again, working for the balance for the reach...
Chris moving smoothly into the fingery section.
Chris moving smoothly into the fingery section.
Comments on Mrs. Hen Places a Peck Add Comment
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By Walt Wehner
Aug 16, 2001

If you're looking for your first 5.12 redpoint, this is definitely the route for it. It's only got maybe 2 moves of difficult climbing (extend the the draw on that last bolt if you have trouble clipping it) and would probably rate about 11b or c at old-school areas like Shelf. Probably my favorite climb at Table.

By piz
Dec 5, 2001

I agree, this was my first 5.12! piz : )

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Incredibly soft, but a fun line, especially for Table Mountain where you can usually step out to a ledge for a no hands rest.

By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
Oct 28, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Another sustained fifty feet of the headwall and this would be one of the best 5.11c's in the Front Range, maybe even as good as Lost Planet Airman or Taping Tendons. By comparison, many find "Bullet The Brown Cloud, .11a/b, at Brown Cloud" to be significantly more difficult. This route is definitely worth doing if you are already here or if you are looking to break into 5.11 errrr I mean 5.12.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Nov 28, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

First ascent, March 1990, Chip Chace and Pat Adams.

I took advantage of some snowy "new-route weather" to find, clean, and bolt Mrs. Hen. I was using Guy Lords' drill. Guy named this route and several others we did, like Mr. Squirrel.

Another weekend, the sun finally came out, and we arrived just in time to watch Chip flash the route. They hesitated to give a number grade, perhaps sensing that I'd be disappointed. I got it the same day too, thinking not quite a twelve but very attractive.

Having Pat and Chip do the FA was cool, they are amazing climbers. Another outstanding climber, Mike Cichon, just led Mrs. Hen on gear this spring, 2009.

By Peteoria
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This is a typical "clipping crux" route. The moves aren't hard until you stop mid-crux to clip!

5.12 if you're hanging the quick draws....

5.11 if you skip the crux bolt or already have the draws hung....