Mrs. Field's Follies 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Eric Hörst, Cindy Hintz, Charles Ganote (2003) |
| Submitted By: | Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008 |
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Jeff moving beyond the notorious roof.
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Description This is a really fun route with a crack, some face, and an overhang on really nice rock.
Start as for Geisha Girl by climbing the wide crack, then straight up to the intimidating roof (easier than it looks). Surmount the roof to the anchors.
Location Same as Geisha Girl, at a wide crack just right of the starting block of Bobby D's Bunny
Protection 10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. 60M rope.
Preparing to clip before tackling roof.
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Pulling the roof.
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Lower Part of Mrs. Field's Follies
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| Comments on Mrs. Field's Follies |
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By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Apr 10, 2008
| If I remember correctly, I was a bit nervous about the way the rope ran over some horizontal edges after clipping the anchors. There were a few sharp areas that I thought might give me problems. Anyone else notice this? |
By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.8
| The roof at the end makes this 5.8 unique and one of the NRG's best in grade. |
By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Aug 22, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| Fantastic route! In my opinion the 5.8 was right off the ground with some balancy moves early. Considering that high first bolts are the norm at the New I wasn't surprised by that, but it made the start interesting. |
By Stickman
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.9-
| Long and fun. I feel that it climbs more like an easy 5.9 when compared to Geisha Girl. Amazingly fun roof. Beware! In high summer there is often an active hornets nest in the cracks above the 5th bolt. |
By heathc
May 15, 2012
| Sweet Route! Climbs very smooth with a nice crack starting about 4 inches at the base and turning to a crimpy, balancy climb pretty much all the way to the roof. Speaking of! This roof is pretty awesome. Two nice start holds lead to a left throw, heel hook, right throw, and mantle over the top. Climb it! |
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 20, 2012
rating: 5.8
| Was able to get to the ground with a 55-57 meter rope today with no trouble. Guidebook says 60 meter is a must. Not so much. |
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