Mrs. Clean Gets Down
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Tony Bubb places a good cam under a flake before h...
Approach Shirt Tail Peak to the left, as for Gambit, but continue well left of that route, to the West side of Shirt Tail, above Rincon Wall. Go 20 meters or so up the gully and look up to a large, dark, West-facing wall. Scramble up 20+ meters of easy rock to reach a tree below and west of the West-facing wall, and set a belay. King of Pain and Mrs. Clean Gets Down both ascend the flat wall above.
The start for both routes is the same: Climb up to the left of the obvious slot, placing a nut or two on long slings, then at a hanging flake, step to the right across the slot to the right into a wide stem, and get up onto the main wall. 2 small cams can be placed here. Then up into an odd pod. For King Of Pain, head up and left. For Ms Clean Gets Down, head up and right from the pod towards a bolt on the right. The moves to reach the first bolt are reasonable (5.9) but a fall from here would be ill-advised. Climb up and right past the bolt to a crux (15-foot+ fall if you miss), and then up easier ground on positive edges to the 'tiny wire(s)' placement, which is barely worth the effort to place. Continue up on climbing no harder than 5.9 to reach a tree near the top of the face (hitch for pro) and top out. To the left there is a 2-bolt anchor with cold shuts. Rap off to descend.
There is a 3rd bolt 6' back and left to back up a TR anchor if desired.
Note: These climbs are VERY hard in the afternoon sun.
The one bolt on this route is good, but will be below your feet on the thin crux. As well, a lead [to] this requires a heady moves some distance from so-so gear to get to the first bolt, and some large runouts after the bolt. The 'tiny wire' after the crux that is noted on Rossiter's Eldo. topo is a #0 RP or tiny copper-steel. Even with 2 of them equalized, they are not going to hold much of a fall in the flexi-flake they are behind. Count on the runout.
Gear: some small to medium stoppers, some hand-to-fist sized cams, and a two 0.3" TCUs will get you onto the vertical face. The bolt is good, but this is not a sport route. If you want to [amuse] yourself, take some tiny nuts to place 15' above the bolt. The tree near the top can be hitched for top-out pro prior to reaching the bolt-anchors of King Of Pain. You can probably reach these anchors (from which it is possible to TR this route) from a scramble left of mid-route on Gambit.
Tony Bubb now into thinner territory on "Mrs ...
BETA PHOTO: 'Mrs Clean Gets Down (5.11-)' goes up the Leaning ...
By Dave Stewart
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2007
I actually got a "tiny wire" in before the bolt. It was about equal in size to the second "tiny wire" above the crux. This helps calm the nerves as you go for the bolt. It's not that hard or scary though. The "tiny wire" above the crux might hold a fall, but the moves are considerably easier (5.9ish?). I probably would not have even placed it, or even looked for it, if it weren't for the description in the book. I had the piece so I might as well use it, right?
In regards to pulling the crux, yes you are well over the bolt but the fall is totally clean (and safe)- believe me, I know.