Aaron James Parlier on "Earthly Paradise" (V4/5 FA...
Description
-Not in Guidebook-
Mount Rogers National Recreation Area (MRNRA) is the longest approach that you will experience in the Grayson area and it is limited only by your motivation to hike in. The actual hike to the Highlands Area on GHSP property isn’t very long (30min if you’re going slow and playing with ponies), but the walk past the gate into the MRNRA is a bit further, rocky, and all uphill on the way in (on the upside, it's all downhill on the way out!). The distance is ~2mi but once you hike a little into the MRNRA you pass boulders and blocks continually.
I haven’t covered this area well at all yet on this website but it is a focus that I will be improving over the next few months. This place is vast and the directions will be quite vague, but the landscape is open and obvious. I will only cover the most obvious and straight forward lines and areas. When you go up, you will no doubt find an awesome obscure block or two. Most climbs up here have been done but documentation is next to impossible for everything. Just have fun and climb everything you can!
There are three "peaks" described here (they arent real "peaks" but they stick up off of the horizon of the mountain ridge in three distinct areas): Feral, Rhododendron, and Paradise... Feral and Rhodo comprise the popular destination called "Rhododendron Gap" which is an open saddle in the landscape between the bouldery clusters on either end which I have called Feral (the first cluster) and Rhododendron (the second). After Rhododendron Gap you will pass through another low, grassy saddle in the landscape (lots of ponys congregate here) and there is a third bouldery cluster which I labled Paradise Peak. Rhododendron Peak is the tallest (over 5,000ft of elevation), middle peak. All three peaks have tons on amazing boulder problems to choose from.
Don’t start into this area if you are limited by time. This place will encompass an entire day or more. You can camp ANYWHERE in the MRNRA and this is a spectacular area to do so. You will find breath-taking views, ponies, wonderful trails, and a vast amount of bouldering. There are many highball lines, steep & vertical faces, slabs, and all around awesome climbs.
If you don’t want a long approach however, stick to the endless fields and easy approaches in GHSP proper. If you’re spending a while in the park though, take a light pad and pack, food, some water, and enjoy the place... it’s an area that you won’t soon forget.
Getting There
stay straight on the trail past the intersection to the horizon area. hike to the walk-through fence. hike up the mountain trail to the rocky natural bald on top.
The Appalachian Trail meanders throughout, around, and nearby these three peaks and crests and allows for easy access once you arrive. There are a myriad of other side trails and pony paths that facilitate access to many boulders and faces. Take time to explore and climb on the many blocks and boulders and enjoy your time while you’re up here.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for M.R.N.R.A.:
Stand start on the left portion of the back, highball face. Work up long, delicate, often reachy moves to subtle holds until the slab upper portion become easier and walk/slab to the top. This one can be a little sketchy without a few pads and spotters, but the landing is alright....[more]Browse More Classics in VA
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