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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Milk and Honey 
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MRJR (aka MB III) 
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MRJR (aka MB III) 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Wayne Crill
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, autumn
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 25, 2008
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


The route climbs the very overhanging (20 feet in 50) red/orange pillar tucked in a nook about 100 feet past Five Fang Overhang, before you come to the Inverted Vee, Crazy Fingers, etc. The formation looks sort of like a big finger.

Start on the right side of the nook and climb the obtuse corner to a small ledge; plug in gear here and then make a strenuous traverse left, then up, to the "Block," where you can clip a fixed Stopper (and plug in supplemental TCUs). The crux is on the very overhanging arete above, with a good nut around left protecting the exit.

We "headpointed" the route, but now that the gear placements are clean and the holds brushed, it's not unreasonable -- if you're willing to take falls -- to give 'er from the ground, though there are a couple of "no-falls" spots. The gear's all good once you get it in; it's just strenuous to place on this angle.

The name MRJR stands for Michael Reardon Junior — Michael and my last day climbing together was up on the West Ridge in March 2007, and we looked at this line on the way out, planning to try it together in autumn 2007. Michael went missing in Ireland that July. MRJR also references Michael's route MRSR, at Indian Cove, Joshua Tree, which he named in honor of his father and did as a free-solo FA (5.12a). It was a real pleasure to be able to come back to this route with Wayne as we continue to explore the endless "chossibilities" on Boulder's sandstone.

MB III is Masterbator's Edge III; the first "Edge" is described on this site and is just uphill by Duh Dihedral; and the second "Edge" (FA: Chris Weidner; 5.12 X), still unnamed, lies just up and right of MRJR. So if you've got your gritstone head on and want to tick the MB Trifecta, there you go -- it's yours for the taking.


100 feet north (uphill-ish) along the West Ridge Trail from Five Fang Overhang; or 75 feet south (downhill-ish) from Inverted Vee.


We used lots of TCUs from Metolius #4 (red) on down, as well as small nuts. You'll need some long slings here and there, for rope drag, too.

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By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Oct 25, 2008
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b PG13

I thought this was really big fun for a little route with an exciting bouldery crux up high. Really fun movement. The crux is well protected and its a clean fall. I hope people check this line out as its well worth the effort and quite 'reasonable' at the grade, only jalepeño spicy.