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Eagle Canyon
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Mr. Wong's Zipper T 
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Mr. Wong's Zipper 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Rombach and Tom Wezwick
Page Views: 485
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Aug 20, 2009

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Teague starting up Mr. Wong's Zipper before the bu...

Description 

This is a thin finger crack and seam that contains a couple of small pods that splits a blank looking lichen covered vertical face, that boasts some classic Cochiti movement while using questionable traditional placements in softer rock(like most Cochiti crack climbs). Start up a slab with crappy gear to the vertical section and better gear to begin the business. Stepping off of the slab to the vertical business is considered the crux, while the grade remains consistent most of the way up. There is one good rest before the exit moves to a natural belay. There are some crafty gear placements to be had on this route. This one is a stiffy and is worthy of some bolted anchors.

Location 

This route is located left around the corner from Bunga Bunga, and about 30' to the right of Ego Maniac. Not to be confused with The Wrong Mr. Wong(to its left).

Protection 

Small to medium stoppers, triples from .33"- #1 Camalots, 1-#2 Camalot, runners, and a # 3 and #4 Camalots to back up the boulder belay at the top. Rap off of a rope slung around the boulder down the north side where the Didgemaster sits.


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