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One of my many unfinished nemeses..There is a man-sized hueco at ground level about 7 or 10 feet right of Soot Patrol. This climb starts in the low hole and moves over the bulge campusing between holds that are better than they look. After matching on the jug protrusion, move left and try to find a way to stand up over the bulge.
A few feet right of Soot Patrol
Pad with a nice flat landing.
|By Tim King|
Dec 2, 2012
Hm, any updates on this one?
Seems like it would be (almost) over once you match that "jug protrusion" thing, but getting your feet over the bulge is devious. I can see some nipples etc have broken off just above the jug, did any of these make it easier? Sure feels hard now (harder than King Dinsosaur/Soot Patrol) but maybe I'm just a bad beta punter.
Edit: More moisture outside means more lurking... Found this on Bobs king-dino site:
"Also, many people don't know that Mister Witty was once a 3 star V5 in its original rendition. There were originally two large plates at the lip of the overhang making everything significantly easier to get on the slab, not to mention there used to be a big knob to grab once you got your feet up. Well, first the left plate broke (it was still V5 but a bit harder) and then the right hand plate broke, leaving you with those measley crimps that exist to this day to negotiate your way over the lip. My first note is "hasn't gone since another hold broke". The guy who broke the second lip hold wanted to glue it back on but I expressed my distaste for that idea and we kept trying it. My second note (too bad I didn't put dates on things) reads "V7 now, very nice!". The top knob broke a couple years later, but didn't affect the grade enough to change it. It's a great problem still, but I remember the original V5 Mister Witty with all holds intact being better."
|By Arthur Guittet|
Jan 1, 2013
I would be very curious to know if it still goes too. Of all the people who have tried it and whom I have talked to, no one was able to get his feet over the bulge ... and I've been trying for a while unsuccessfully.
If it still goes, it would be a wonderful problem !
Any recent input ? (I don't think anything broke in the last 2 years)
|By Bob Banks|
Jan 6, 2013
Definitely 'still goes'. Last time I was up there it was the same as it's been the last 10 years. If you're not getting your feet over the bulge, you're not using the right feet!
Edit: Beta video
This video is probably 15 years ago, but the foot beta is the same. The hold I lock off to (and then knock on) up high is the old patina knob that's lip broke off. If you're really strong you can still do it this way, but I also found a way using a sidepull out right, a hold you can see in the upper right corner of the frame towards the end of the video. I may have video of this way as well somewhere.
|By Arthur Guittet|
Jan 6, 2013
Thanks for the input, I'm just being weak and looking for an easy explanation ... I will go back and try again. Harder.
edit: thanks for the video ! I am using the same foot I think, but trying to struggle my way up using mainly the sloper on the left. Very heinous. I will try to match on the good patina and go further right, thanks for the video !
I also watched your video of the swimming hole, damn that area looked fantastic ! Too bad it's mostly gone.