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> 07. Outaouais
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> Reaper Buttress
Mr. Toady's Dihedral
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
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Routes in Reaper Buttress
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Jugness T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Krispy Kreme S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mr. Toady's Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Reaper, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | R. Halka, J. Cotter - 1983 |
| Page Views: | 815 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jfaub on Jul 6, 2014 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
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Access Issue: NCC Gatineau Park restrictions
Details
You can rock climb in the following locations:
- Home Cliff Centre Wall
- Twin Ribs Down Under, Eastern Block and The Left Twin
- Western Cwm West.
Description
This climb is awesome. A bit short, but definitely worth trying. It is graded a bit old-school (as with most climbs in gatineau park, beware of the ''+'')
Start on broken ground and gain the base of the pink dihedral. Jam and stem up this until the corner crack dissipates into nothingness and you have to use face holds, maybe the arete out left if you so desire. Put in your last piece of gear before the crack disappears (0.5 WC helium size) climb up over it and commit to the reachy / dynamic crux (depends on how tall you are). Really bad holds await, but don't let go, and clip a bolt. You think it's over now, don't you? Oh no. You still have to clip the chains. Be creative with what you have (not much), and feel around for hidden holds (key) and finally clip the chains.
Start on broken ground and gain the base of the pink dihedral. Jam and stem up this until the corner crack dissipates into nothingness and you have to use face holds, maybe the arete out left if you so desire. Put in your last piece of gear before the crack disappears (0.5 WC helium size) climb up over it and commit to the reachy / dynamic crux (depends on how tall you are). Really bad holds await, but don't let go, and clip a bolt. You think it's over now, don't you? Oh no. You still have to clip the chains. Be creative with what you have (not much), and feel around for hidden holds (key) and finally clip the chains.
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