Mr. Spiffy 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Darius Deavers |
| Submitted By: | jonah on Apr 13, 2003 |
| |
Chris Schulte bouldering out the direct start to G...
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Description Mr. Spiffy is on the overhung wall next to the parking area for Nip & Tuck. The regular start begins with an awkward mantle. The moves go left from here, through some big but hard to use sidepulls, then to a jug on the arete (which is surprisingly hard to clip from). A couple thrutchy moves and you're at the crux, which involves pretty tough body position on slopey crimps and gastons pulling over the lip. Look for a key right foot under the lip to get your hips up, and it's all over.
I may be a puss, or maybe I was doing the moves wrong, but this thing feels really hard. I heard someone bouldered it out and called it an 8. Yikes.
Protection 3-4 bolts, chains at the top.
By Jim Redo
Apr 14, 2003
| Pat Adams did the first ascent of this route. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Apr 14, 2003
| If anyone bouldered this out ground-up, everyone would hear about it. A dicey balancy crux at 20+ feet with a deadly landing. 13X for sure |
By Anonymous Coward
May 22, 2004
| attn.Peter Beal, I am wondering why is Mr. Stiffy not in the guide? This route is a "classic" short, hard, contrived, very painful, also would like to note there is no " HIKING" for my little legs!! thanks so very much for listing!! |
By chris schulte
May 27, 2008
| Hi there..
To clarify, both myself and Seth Allred bouldered out this route a while back.. I've also heard that Dave Graham bouldered it out a few years ago.. Maybe V8 from the direct.. Yep, a pretty scary mantle, but not unreasonable with 3 mondo pads... ;) Buttermilk like.... |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 27, 2008
| Chris,
That is amazing even with mondo pads. Way to go! BTW the mantel on Mr Spiffy is just past the last pad in the photo so you're looking at a 30' drop onto jagged rocks on a 13a crux. The start is definitely harder than V8. That's probably the most significant highball/solo in the Front Range in quite a while. I can't believe it wasn't reported!
bouldercanyonbouldering.blogspot.com/ |
By chris schulte
May 28, 2008
| Thanks, Peter..
BTW all, this is a photo by Andy Mann!! |
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