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At the crux of Mr. Slate
Start up Human Fright and then cut right to the first bolt on the face. Continue up past 4 bolts. At this time you have the option of placing a few small to medium sized cams at an overlap before proceeding to the fifth bolt. 2 bolt anchor.
Start up Human Fright and then cut right onto the bolted face. You need a 70M rope to do a single rope rap or do 2 raps to the ground via the Human Fright anchors.
A hand sized piece for Human Fright and small to medium sized cams between bolts 4 and 5, all on extra long runners. 6 bolts.
By J Smith
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Enjoyable route with a short crux right at the 4th bolt. I counted 7 bolts total, 5 leading up to the overlap where you can get a small cam (0 metolius) and then two more to the top. The 10R section shown in the 2001 guide doesn't exist, you clip a bolt, climb up 5 ft. and place a piece and then climb up another 5 ft. or so and clip the next bolt. It is a bit runout on 5.6/7 climbing after the last bolt to the anchor - 2 bolt with metolius rap hangers. Back cleaning any gear in the Human Fright crack eliminates the need for extended draws.
Mar 27, 2016
Indeed, there's one more bolt than indicated by Gaines/Vogel. At the 5th bolt there's a blank impasse where you grab a flake at the end of the first pitch of Human Fright. I stopped here and rapped from the HF anchors. Seemed very contrived and silly to step back out onto the face for two more bolts and 25ft of climbing. Felt right to end there.
Great and interesting climbing through the first five bolts.