Mr. Slate 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Gaines/Peterson |
| Submitted By: | Dave M Snyder on Sep 26, 2011 |
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At the crux of Mr. Slate
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Description Start up Human Fright and then cut right to the first bolt on the face. Continue up past 4 bolts. At this time you have the option of placing a few small to medium sized cams at an overlap before proceeding to the fifth bolt. 2 bolt anchor.
Location Start up Human Fright and then cut right onto the bolted face. You need a 70M rope to do a single rope rap or do 2 raps to the ground via the Human Fright anchors.
Protection A hand sized piece for Human Fright and small to medium sized cams between bolts 4 and 5, all on extra long runners. 6 bolts.
By J Smith
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.10d
| Enjoyable route with a short crux right at the 4th bolt. I counted 7 bolts total, 5 leading up to the overlap where you can get a small cam (0 metolius) and then two more to the top. The 10R section shown in the 2001 guide doesn't exist, you clip a bolt, climb up 5 ft. and place a piece and then climb up another 5 ft. or so and clip the next bolt. It is a bit runout on 5.6/7 climbing after the last bolt to the anchor - 2 bolt with metolius rap hangers. Back cleaning any gear in the Human Fright crack eliminates the need for extended draws. |
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