Mr. P's Wurst 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 170 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | MojoMonkey on Oct 4, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Madame G's upper pitches and rap.
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Description Climbs up the orange buttress to the right of Madame G's and the left of Le Teton. There are three prominent overhangs near the top of the buttress, this route weaves up through the left side of the first, right of the second, and left of the third to merge with Madame G's Wulst at the top.
Note - I tried this for the first time recently without really reading the guidebook well and accidentally did the 5.6R variation. Someone who has done the standard route can elaborate on that part. I'll list 3 pitches as in the gray dick, though I linked pitches 2&3.
Pitch 1: Scramble up the gully for about 50 feet. Anchor in the gully.
Pitch 2: Angle up and left on good holds towards the first overhang and build a belay. 5.8, 60'.
Pitch 3: Climb the overhang at a crack, then angle left, staying right of the next overhang and left of the third overhang and Le Teton. Exit to the GT Ledge in the same spot as Madame G. 5.7+, 60'.
Variation: There is a ledge off to the left side of the gully about the same level of the start of Madame G's P2 and the ledge used to top rope the guide's wall. From here you can climb the pebbly face at around 5.6R heading towards the first overhang. I angled right towards the arete a little, then back to the left merging with the standard P2. I placed some small pieces (micronut, black tricam, one of the smaller BD C3s) but wasn't thrilled by them.
Location Starts right of the orange Madame G's buttress in the gully frequently used to set up top ropes on the Guide's Wall.
Protection Standard Gunks rack. I'd recommend bringing enough to link P2/P3.
Some micronuts/cams may help a on the variation.
| Comments on Mr. P's Wurst |
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 20, 2012
| We linked P2 and P3. I thought the move over the roof (supposedly 7ish) was much harder than a 7. It was a long reach for me. I wanted to like this climb and I really didn't like it. From the ground it looks great, in reality it was just ok. Will do it again, perhaps I was missing something the first time. |
By BrianRH
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.8
| This was a fun exposed climb which I'd describe as G (with the caveat that we skipped the last 30 feet or so to finish on Le Teton) . We scrambled up the gully to the ledges to the right of the bushes described in the guidebook and then went up the face to the left. Relatively easy, exposed 5.6ish climbing with good rests on big holds that look like they should be loose but seem solid. The crux is balancy and thoughtful.
Our leader decided to go right and finish on Le Teton so I didn't climb the last 30-40 feet or so but it didn't look like as much fun. |
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