Mr. Peanut 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Hooman Aprin and Les Ellison, 1983 |
| Submitted By: | M.Morley on Nov 14, 2006 |
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Mike on the upper half of Mister Peanut, belayed b...
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Description Mr. Peanut lies up and approx 20' left of Chocolate Corner. There is a somewhat hidden hand crack on the right, just left of a wide crack. Start up the hand crack to a small roof (crux), which narrows down to consistent fingers to the anchor. It is rated 11+ in both the older Sharp End guidebook as well as the new Bloom book, but I would argue it's more like 10+, possibly 11-.
Protection Mostly purple Camalots (0.5) and/or orange TCUs, with a couple smaller and larger pieces for good measure.
Mike tackles the upper finger crack. Photo: Joanna...
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brittney on mr peanut
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mrs peanut on mr peanut
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006
| I'd be interested to hear what others feel about the rating on this one. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.11-
| You mean that you want me to agree that it is off? Yeah, it's probably 5.11-, but not 11+. |
By Michael Murphy
Nov 17, 2006
rating: 5.10+
| I onsighted this route, so there is no way it is 5.11. I have never onsighted a 5.11. I'd give it 5.10+ at most. 4.5 Camalots protect well in the offwidth on the upper right. |
By Ben Kiessel
Dec 16, 2006
| I thought after climbing this route a few years ago that the rating was for climbing the thin crack, not the one where you can wedge your a$$ in.
I have climbed it both ways and if you use that wide crack on the right it is way easier(10+). But if you stick to the little crack once you hit the little roof, it is much harder(11+).
I remember there being some self restraint involved to not use the wide crack, but then again it has been awhile since i have climbed it, i could be way off. |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 16, 2007
| "I thought after climbing this route a few years ago that the rating was for climbing the thin crack, not the one where you can wedge your a$$ in."
Oh, I guess you mean like that? That would explain it. |
By Ben Kiessel
Oct 16, 2007
| yes, but if the 11+ grade is for just the thin crack I'm not sure where you draw the line and say no more since you have to use the right crack at the bottom. |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 16, 2007
| I'm not sure, Ben. Fun route whatever the grade. |
By CURT LOVE
Nov 6, 2007
| GEAR:Fingers size gear and maybe one big piece but you could get by with some fingers size gear the whole way up.
5.11+ I was thinking more like 5.9 or 10-.
Contrived climbing is to goofy for me.
dont let 5.11 plus scare you away from this one. Maybe the easiest route I have done at Donnely canyon.
Have fun |
By Darren Knezek
Dec 5, 2008
| FA: Hooman Aprin and Les Ellison, 1983. |
By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009
| This was rated 5.11+ because it's a two-pitch climb, and that's the rating of the 2nd pitch that angles up and left thru a flare.
It had nothing to do with the two cracks at the bottom. |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2009
| Agree this route is more like 10+ than 11+. Still really fun. Maybe 11+ if you didn't use the off-width but that would be pretty contrived for the creek. |
By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.10
| The first pitch is an easy-moderate 10. If you want to see what 10+ feels like, go climb The Wave. Can't speak to the second pitch. |
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