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Routes in Palmer Gulch
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Keelhaul T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Mr. November Too T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. October Also T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Secrets Between Sailors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sing Me Spanish Techno S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Spicy Thai Tuna T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Three Yak Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed V1 V0-1 4+ |
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| Type: | Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Pat Flemming, Mark Jenkings 2007 Ground up |
| Page Views: | 949 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | harrison t on Mar 26, 2013 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Fun route with a semi wilderness feeling. Cool summit with great views.
P1 5.9+: Climb up past some blocky/loose stuff. Jam the crack to some face climbing until you can set a belay on a good ledge. (100')
P2 5.10: Head right on ledge to a crack and face, pull into the fairly dirty crack placing good gear through a few sustained moves. Eases off as you progress up. Build belay on good ledge off to the right under a roof. (200')
p3 5.6: Move left and up through some easy climbing to a small bulge. Move through the bulge into a wider crack that eventually turns into an easy chimney, take it to the summit (160') (i thought the move through the bulge felt 5.8ish)
Descent: Walk off SE down slab, find easy gully down around adjacent formations. Once down the gully just follow the granite walls on your right back to your backs.. May be wise to bring up a pair or shoes to walk of in.
P1 5.9+: Climb up past some blocky/loose stuff. Jam the crack to some face climbing until you can set a belay on a good ledge. (100')
P2 5.10: Head right on ledge to a crack and face, pull into the fairly dirty crack placing good gear through a few sustained moves. Eases off as you progress up. Build belay on good ledge off to the right under a roof. (200')
p3 5.6: Move left and up through some easy climbing to a small bulge. Move through the bulge into a wider crack that eventually turns into an easy chimney, take it to the summit (160') (i thought the move through the bulge felt 5.8ish)
Descent: Walk off SE down slab, find easy gully down around adjacent formations. Once down the gully just follow the granite walls on your right back to your backs.. May be wise to bring up a pair or shoes to walk of in.
Location
Starts on SW side of Harney Peak Granite Massif
(GPS N43.866594*W103.539331*) - From Busse/Burr 'THE NEEDLES OF RUSHMORE' guidebook
Approach: From the Nelson Creek granite ridge locate the southwestern most point of the harney massif, make that a point to go to. Once there skirt around the formation and start hiking E up the hill. It would be easiest (if you don't have a gps) to follow the granite cliffs as you make your way up the hill. You'll get to a huge cave/amphitheater, keep trending right past the cave and hike up the hill until you reach the base of a pretty big wall/formation. The start of the route is pretty much in the center of the formation.
(GPS N43.866594*W103.539331*) - From Busse/Burr 'THE NEEDLES OF RUSHMORE' guidebook
Approach: From the Nelson Creek granite ridge locate the southwestern most point of the harney massif, make that a point to go to. Once there skirt around the formation and start hiking E up the hill. It would be easiest (if you don't have a gps) to follow the granite cliffs as you make your way up the hill. You'll get to a huge cave/amphitheater, keep trending right past the cave and hike up the hill until you reach the base of a pretty big wall/formation. The start of the route is pretty much in the center of the formation.
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