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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Bitter Route, The T,TR 
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Cabana Boy T 
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Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
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Roving for Love T 
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Super Natural T 
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Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Mr. Natural 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: [Robert Crumb]
Page Views: 2,662
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Feb 3, 2001

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Em at the start.

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a nice hand crack that shoots up directly from the west Redgarden trail just before the wooden stairs...one short but fun pitch.

    Protection 

    Bring finger to hand size cams...tree with fixed anchor 60 feet above trail.


    Photos of Mr. Natural Slideshow Add Photo
    Mr. Natural.
    BETA PHOTO: Mr. Natural.
    Chuck at the crux. Chuck is doing this very differently from Luke in the previous photo.
    Chuck at the crux. Chuck is doing this very differ...
    The Original 'Mr. Natural' by Robert Crumb.
    The Original 'Mr. Natural' by Robert Crumb.
    Diane, as usual, making it look pretty easy as she cruises up Mr Natural.
    Diane, as usual, making it look pretty easy as she...
    Below the crux.
    Below the crux.
    FUN!! I agree with JB. Although I couldn't be wearing more clothes here....
    FUN!! I agree with JB. Although I couldn't be wear...
    At the crux. The crux involves some strenuous hand jams with poor feet to get your feet up to a big hold in the crack. Captain 4Q 9++s climbs the overhang to the left to the hueco'd face.
    At the crux. The crux involves some strenuous hand...
    Ms. Cindy looking casual on Mr. Natural.
    Ms. Cindy looking casual on Mr. Natural.

    Comments on Mr. Natural Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2011
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    Jan 1, 2001

    This is a great warmup line. Rossiter calls it "lightning-bolt shaped", which is appropriate. To locate, look for the line running up the middle of a clean face with a big flake that you have to move to the left and up to get around. 60 above the ground is a large tree with rappell slings. Its probably 50 yards below the wooden ladder.
    By Brian Sorden
    Aug 23, 2001

    Rossiter gives FA to Robert Crumb, the cartoon artist who conceived Mr. Natural back in the hippie days. So was the first ascensionist just a stoned art enthusiast or did he lead it naked with a long white beard?
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Nov 4, 2001

    A great route. This route certainly can give you a pump if you fiddle with gear, all of the gear placements are great so keep climbing. Have fun with this one, a great warmup if you are doing Yellow Spur or anything higher up, Gma's, Darkness, etc..
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 13, 2002

    Three stars? A solid route for sure, but hardly three stars on an Eldo standard. As indicated for three stars: "This route is great. It's one of the routes that you smile as you crank the moves on the rock. The length and asthetics of the line are factors also. It's a route that, when you're done, you say excitedly to your partner, 'That was friekingawesome! You're gonna love it.' You look forward to doing it again with another friend."
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 3, 2003

    Good route but too short for 3 stars.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Aug 24, 2003

    Very fun, but short. If the jam crack were twice as long, people would be lining up for this one.
    By Richard Rossiter
    Oct 17, 2003
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Oh yeah. Led this route naked in 1978, but no long white beard. I was inspired by R. Crumbs [relentllessly] 70s character, Mr. Natural. If you haven't seen ZAP COMIX, check 'em out. Heavy stuff. OK, the route is short, but the climbing is exceptional. Hence, three stars. As for the name, Captain 4Q, see ZAP COMIX. I would also recommend watching the documentary of the life and art of R. Crumb, CRUMB. Heavy stuff. Richard Rossiter
    By ac
    Oct 17, 2003

    Saw the movie, as I never understood the underground following Crumb had.... Crumb was pathetic at best, just like his artwork. Lysergic acid diethylamide and a simple mind required.
    By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
    Oct 17, 2003

    "Those were the best of times , those were the worst of times". FWIW , I somewhat recall my solo ascent of the Bastille Crack on Purple Micro-dot. Guess you had to have been there. :~)Sorry you're too young to remember.
    By Matthew Brejcha
    Mar 26, 2004

    Really fun pitch, only do it on the way in or out of a climb otherwise it's not worth the hike. Fun pulling around the roof.
    By Holly Barnard
    Jul 25, 2004
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    After pulling over the flake, there is a very large jug (hard to describe but you'll know is when you see it). Towards the bottom of this jug hold there appears to be some friable rock. Looked like it could break pretty easy if one were to lay back off of it. Just a heads up....

    Fun route, too short, but might be a good lead for those transitioning from 5.8s to 5.9 in Eldo since it protects so well.
    By Michael Amato
    Nov 5, 2004

    Tougher than it looks from the ground, this little pitch delivers a lot of fun and a high pump per vertical foot ratio.
    By Richard Rossiter
    Jun 30, 2005
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Mr. Natural's (the route's) only fault is its brevity. It it continued with the same quality for another 60 feet it would be a super classic. It's still super fun, even if it's short. I'm sure some guys could relate to this. As for LSD, Dr. Leary had this to say: "Psychedelic drugs cause panic and temporary insanity in those who haven't taken them."
    By Matt Richardson
    Administrator
    From: Longmont, CO
    Apr 2, 2008
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I did this a while back and recall the line to be immensely enoyable, but too short. After getting spanked on Vedauwoo 7s, I was a little shocked at how easy this went. Definitely played more to my style, being a recovering sport climber and all. And the good pro was a definite bonus - especially since I felt deathly ill and wasn't thinking clearly.
    By Canon
    Aug 21, 2011

    We did this because the Great Zot/Rewritten area was a zoo and we didn't have time to wait. Protects easy enough, but I was specifically trying to jam it on lead and didn't have an easy time of it. After setting the anchor, I tried it again and cruised up as a layback. Fantastic climb, but short. A couple good rest stances.