Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is a great warmup line. Rossiter calls it "lightning-bolt shaped", which is appropriate. To locate, look for the line running up the middle of a clean face with a big flake that you have to move to the left and up to get around. 60 above the ground is a large tree with rappell slings. Its probably 50 yards below the wooden ladder.
Rossiter gives FA to Robert Crumb, the cartoon artist who conceived Mr. Natural back in the hippie days. So was the first ascensionist just a stoned art enthusiast or did he lead it naked with a long white beard?
A great route. This route certainly can give you a pump if you fiddle with gear, all of the gear placements are great so keep climbing. Have fun with this one, a great warmup if you are doing Yellow Spur or anything higher up, Gma's, Darkness, etc..
Three stars? A solid route for sure, but hardly three stars on an Eldo standard. As indicated for three stars: "This route is great. It's one of the routes that you smile as you crank the moves on the rock. The length and asthetics of the line are factors also. It's a route that, when you're done, you say excitedly to your partner, 'That was friekingawesome! You're gonna love it.' You look forward to doing it again with another friend."
Oh yeah. Led this route naked in 1978, but no long white beard. I was inspired by R. Crumbs [relentllessly] 70s character, Mr. Natural. If you haven't seen ZAP COMIX, check 'em out. Heavy stuff. OK, the route is short, but the climbing is exceptional. Hence, three stars. As for the name, Captain 4Q, see ZAP COMIX. I would also recommend watching the documentary of the life and art of R. Crumb, CRUMB. Heavy stuff. Richard Rossiter
"Those were the best of times , those were the worst of times". FWIW , I somewhat recall my solo ascent of the Bastille Crack on Purple Micro-dot. Guess you had to have been there. :~)Sorry you're too young to remember.
After pulling over the flake, there is a very large jug (hard to describe but you'll know is when you see it). Towards the bottom of this jug hold there appears to be some friable rock. Looked like it could break pretty easy if one were to lay back off of it. Just a heads up....
Fun route, too short, but might be a good lead for those transitioning from 5.8s to 5.9 in Eldo since it protects so well.
Mr. Natural's (the route's) only fault is its brevity. It it continued with the same quality for another 60 feet it would be a super classic. It's still super fun, even if it's short. I'm sure some guys could relate to this. As for LSD, Dr. Leary had this to say: "Psychedelic drugs cause panic and temporary insanity in those who haven't taken them."
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Longmont, CO Apr 2, 2008 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-HVS 4c
I did this a while back and recall the line to be immensely enoyable, but too short. After getting spanked on Vedauwoo 7s, I was a little shocked at how easy this went. Definitely played more to my style, being a recovering sport climber and all. And the good pro was a definite bonus - especially since I felt deathly ill and wasn't thinking clearly.
We did this because the Great Zot/Rewritten area was a zoo and we didn't have time to wait. Protects easy enough, but I was specifically trying to jam it on lead and didn't have an easy time of it. After setting the anchor, I tried it again and cruised up as a layback. Fantastic climb, but short. A couple good rest stances.