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Mt Thorodin
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Mr. Misty 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,122
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002

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Upper Misty.

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a nice route up the middle of the second buttress of Mt. Thorodin linking various features as it zig-zags up the face. It is just L of a line of bolts about 1 pitch up and just R of a face with 2 bolts. It includes a L-facing crack/dihedral about midheight and continues with a crack above. Hike about 1 hour from Panorama Point dropping into the drainage and then angling cross-country to the crag. Perhaps 1.5 stars?

P1. Start on a easy slab lightly protected as it steepens 5.8. Work up a crack, place pro high and right, traverse left across a small slab, 5.9, and find a belay at a tree.

P2. Move up and right into a crack/dihedral (crux). Continue up to a comfortable belay.

P3. Continue up the crack as it zig-zags and then straightens outs. I found a second crux up here as I moved left to avoid wet rock and returned to the crack. You will find a 2 bolt anchor near the top. It is easy terrain above.

Finish to the top & walk off left and back the the base OR from this last anchor rappel 180 feet, and then 170 feet to the ground from the tree OR rap multiple short rappels 80 feet, 100 feet, 100 feet, and 130 feet angling right.

Protection 

Standard rack, 60m rope nice


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By Bryson Slothower
May 28, 2003

Great route! From the top of the second pitch (shares belay with Pope on Dope) we moved to the right and climbed an excellent 5.10 pitch with three distinct crack cruxes to the top of the rock, highly recommended. The second pitch seemed more like 5.8+
By Dougald MacDonald
Jul 13, 2013

Agreed that the second pitch is around 5.8+. The third pitch is definitely the crux. Many variations on the final pitch, but be sure to hit the fairly prominent, whitish, left-leaning crack at the top, visible from the belay below. A steep, well-protected, and very cool climax to the pitch.